The Chronicles of Penhydd

Penhydd Creamery in the New Year.........

2012-01-21T15:14:00.000Z

It is hard to believe that twelve months have passed since plans for the creamery were first drawn up. Mind you I did have to modify both the cassette deck and goods yard. Not to mention building one new bridge and raising the existing one. Throw in a couple of other projects and it doesn't sound that bad.
Despite many false dawns I can now see light at the end of the tunnel. When I started the project I had a picture in my mind as to how I wanted the scene to look. A few rough sketches were made and I am rather pleased to see how well it has all come together. To be honest I did expect to be writing this update a few weeks ago but as I explained in a previous post I had one or two problems
However last week saw the creamery set stones completed and a start made on adding grass, weeds and whatnot. As usual Silflor and Minatur static grasses were used to slowly build up the appearance of an overgrown neglected site, which is slowly falling into decline. I ordered a few small pieces of Silflor rather than a full sized mat and had all the other scenic items in stock so it didn't take long to lay down the basic scenery.

I have coloured the set stones with washes of Burnt Sienna and Sap Green acrylics, the tops being cleaned off with a stiff brush to give a Cotswold stone appearance which is similar to the colour of those at our local church. The grass is Silflor Long Autumn applied in rough clumps

MiniNatur static grass fibres have now been added, these are the winter fibres which give the effect of sun bleached dry grass. The Silfor has been sprayed with artist spray mount and grass fibres added by using a simple puffer bottle. Cheap tacky hairspray can also be used with good results.

Grass tufts have now been added around the area where the buildings will be fitted thus helping to disguising the joint between them and the ground. The track is also having grasses applied, though it looks untidy once all is set the loose fibres will be vacuumed up and the rail cleaned.

A low level view, the road in the foreground will be model in an overgrown state with a pair of rusted gates across it. Fencing will then run along towards the water tower where a gate for rail access will be sited.

The main building has now been completed and is firmly in place, the canopy roof was painted and whilst the paint was still wet Polyfila was applied through a fine sieve. This has resulted in a rather fine textured roof which once dry was weathered with streaks of a muddy green to represent moss and other growth. The canopy supports and brackets were first painted in a faded blue and then dry brushed with dirty black and light rust. Valences and other wooden areas have been painted in a dirty cream then everything blended together with a dusting of talcum powder.

The fencing is by Ratio and will be extended to just past the water tower where a gate protecting rail access will be sited. It will also extend backwards towards the buffer stops which have just been repainted and await weathering. You might just be able to see a hose on the platform top which has been left for someone to trip over, no Health and Safety in the late fifties !

Fencing was painted in the same faded blue as used elsewhere on the site and then given a wash of dirty black mixed with rust. Access to the site is by the road near the wall in the background and so the gates you see in the foreground will be modelled in a rusted and unused state. The corrugated iron clad building has been made from the Wills sheets with rainwater goods from the same source. Though you can't see it the walls were first painted in patches of oily steel followed by faded cream which was in turn dry brushed with light rust. Green patches were also dry brushed along the bottom edges to represent staining from weeds and moisture.


A general view of the site which has since seen the fence completed and gates for both rail traffic and road access put in place.. I have also applied another cream wash to centre building and put a lamp standard in the yard.

So there we are for now, hopefully next week will see the project completed and then I can move onto something else.

Geoff

Hawksworth's for EM..............

2012-01-17T17:40:00.001Z

So much for my New Years modelling plans which have already been changed ! The reason being that last year I bought a couple of Hornby Hawksworth coaches, since then they have been awaiting conversion to EM and have now jumped the queue on the to do list ! Though they are corridor coaches they found widespread use on WR secondary and branch passenger services. Pick up any photo album showing WR steam in the 50’s and more likely than not you will come across views of these coaches all over the system. In fact they are more suitable for Penhydd than the 57 ft BR Suburban’s currently in use.

So how easy is it to fit EM or P4 wheels ? Well thanks to Hornby’s clever bogie design it’s both quick and simple.
The bogie's first need to be removed from the underframe, to do this simply hold the coach in one hand and grip the bogie between finger and thumb around the coil springs. A gentle tug should see the bogie released and ready for conversion but be wary of those delicate steps ! With the bogie's removed you will see the close coupling mechanisms which are screwed in place. As I use S and W couplings both were removed and the bogie supports screwed back in place.

From left to right.......1) Bogie with brake and spring detail removed and EM wheels fitted. 2) Brake and coil spring moulding. 3) Bogie support plate. 4) Bogie before modification. 5) The underframe with one of the close couplings removed.

The next job is to remove the old wheels by simply springing the bogie frames apart. Once removed take a close look at the bogie and you will see that the brake shoes and coil springs are on a separate moulding, which is held to the main bogie frame by four plastic rivets and a touch of glue. File the rivets flush and then slip a flat knife blade between the two parts to gently separate them.
At this point I slipped replacement EM wheels in place to check clearances and found I had an extremely free running bogie, I should imagine that P4 wheels will fit just as easily.

Taking the brake shoe moulding to one side it was cut into 5 pieces. Namely the coil springs section which was glued back in place and the four brake shoe mouldings which were moved outwards to be in line with the new wheels and then cemented in place.

Top photo shows the brake moulding cut in pieces with an unmodified one below.

The top photo shows the basic bogie whilst the bottom one shows the coil spring and brake sections cemented back in place. You can also see how the coupling housing has been filed out to allow the S and W paddle to fit and pivot freely.

The same operation was carried out on the other bogie which completed the conversion to EM.
At this stage you need to consider what couplings you are going to use. As mentioned previously I use S and W fitted to etched mounting plates made especially for them. I always mount them in the low position so that the buffer beam does not need an unsightly slot cut into it.
Looking at the bogie you will see a horseshoe shaped cut out at one end. This was modified as per the photo so the S and W coupling paddle would fit. A little plasticard was then fitted to provide a mounting point for the coupling and that was that.

The coupling test fitted prior to the links being soldered in place and the whole assembly chemically blackened.
Never paint S and W couplings as all sorts of problems will occur !

The underframe all ready for the bogie's to be plugged back in place.

So there you are, one converted Hawksworth coach, it actually took longer to prepare this tutorial than do the conversion ! I will be fitting a small piece of scrap brass etch around the dynamo to represent the drive belt and then painting and weathering the underframe and bogie's

The Hornby Maunsell coaches can also be converted the same way but as for others in the range I couldn’t say.

Geoff

Layout Photography.......

2012-01-07T15:18:00.000Z

I have had many kind comments about my photos both here and on a forum where I post updates of Penhydd. So I thought perhaps a brief description of the equipment I use might be of interest.
Having asked advice and after reading a few reviews I decided to take the plunge and invest in a Panasonic Lumix FZ38 bridge camera........
http://www.panasonic.co.uk/html/en_GB/Products/DMC-FZ38/Overview/2718819/index.html
It didn't cost the earth and two years later I am more than happy with the results that it gives me. Prior to it's purchase I used the family Samsung A6 compact which is really pushed to it's limits when taking photos of models.

Panasonic Lumix FZ38 bridge camera mounted on my adjustable tripod. Nothing fancy here but I am more than happy with the results it gives me, mind you I am still learning how to get the best out of it !


I also make use of a mini tripod and a small bean bag on which to rest the camera as kindly suggested by Chris Nevard.

The small Samsung A6 compact is a bit dated now but it comes in useful for getting into those tight spots.

When using either camera I always set the timer and more often than not use the auto function as I am by no means an expert. However I do experiment with manual settings and am learning new tricks all the time. Just lately I have been trying this free stacking software which I hope will give me even better results.

http://www.hadleyweb.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/CZP/files.htm

So there we are, I don't have Photoshop or anything like that and just use Arcsoftmedia Impresion 2 and Irfanview to crop, straighten and enhance my images as required.

Oh !..... before I sign off here is a sneak preview of the latest scenic work around the creamery. Please ignore the mess as it is all very much work in progress.

Have a good weekend,
Geoff

DAS, Rust and The Penhydd Album Vol. 2 !

2011-12-30T11:57:00.000Z

Progress on Penhydd has taken a step backwards due to the steel rail used on part of the creamery siding rusting. All was well until I applied DAS modelling clay around and between the track so I can only assume that some sort of reaction has taken place ?

To be honest I should have known better than use it as I had terrible problems with rust on a previous layout. The rest of the track is nickel silver and I only used the steel due to having run out of it.
In the end I salvaged some nickel silver rail from one of my storage cassettes and used that as a replacement. Of course lifting the old track caused damage to the set stones so fresh DAS had to be applied and the sets scribed again.
Anyway suffice to say that I am now back to where I was a week ago and a little behind schedule as I had expected to have almost completed the creamery for the New Year. Still it's all part of the learning curve and just goes to show how easily things can go wrong.

So following this minor set back I decided a little operating therapy would help and of course the repaired section needed testing anyway !
Hope you enjoy the photo sequence.............................

Having arrived earlier with a single coach local passenger train 1455 uncoupled and ran down to the creamery to collect a rake of full milk tanks.


Having drawn the tanks out of the creamery and through the goods yard they are then propelled back onto the main approach road.

1455 will now run back down the run round loop and back into the platform road before propelling the single coach back towards the awaiting milk tanks. Once coupled she will then draw the whole train back into the platform before running around once more and taking her place at the head of the train.

The board drops and 1455 starts off, it is a rather heavy load for such a small engine but she can handle it with ease.

With no sign of slipping the train gets underway and rumbles over the bridge.

The postman is still busy telling the landlady of the Penhydd Hall Arms all the latest gossip !

With the train now well underway 1455 leans into the curve and passes an empty overgrown goods yard.

Well that's all for 2011 so here is wishing you all the best for a
Happy New Year in 2012

The last twelve months..............

2011-12-17T20:06:00.000Z

Penhydd Station appeared in the latest issue of Model Railway Journal No.211

Quite a few changes have been made at Penhydd over the past year which just goes to show that you can’t plan for everything. It’s strange to think that the layout was only meant to be a test track for a few ideas that I wanted to try out and the original plan did not feature the cottages or pub let alone a creamery !
At times the journey has been one of frustration and many are the times when a trip to the tip has been an inviting option !
However when the various problems are overcome and things go well then the feeling of satisfaction makes it all worthwhile.

The year started with plans for a simple creamery and after many false dawns the scene is coming together nicely. The latest job was to build the water tower, modified from the old Airfix kit and fitted with a curved corrugated iron sheet roof it now looks something like this……..

The above photo shows how the new roof parts were made from Plastikard and grafted onto the original kit roof.

The first photo shows how I built up the new roof over the old one supplied in the kit. Slater’s corrugated iron sheet was cut into strips and applied to the roof in much the same way as the prototype. A new inspection hatch and ladders replaced the original kit items. Finally the whole model was painted a light grey and then weathered with washes of dirty black and light rust. Much use being made of cotton buds to gently remove paint as required. The roof was painted light rust with areas picked out in darker shades, then whilst the paint was still wet Carrs “Shades of rust” weathering powders were applied to give the results you see here.

Though the cross members and rings have been thinned down they still seem a little heavy and so I might try and reduce them a touch more. Whilst awaiting paint to dry I continued to carve more stone sets into the yard and track infill surfaces and also worked up the scenery around the base of the tower.
I expect, or should I say hope to have the set stones painted and plenty of long grass in place by this time next week and then finish the two remaining buildings for the New Year, which will leave just the cassette deck scenery to be completed.

On a different note 1455 is now settling down and for several weeks has been the sole engine in steam as can be seen in the following photos……

Waiting between shunts

Propelling a van down to the end loading dock.

1455 awaits departure time with a single coach.

What next ? - Well I must finish my WR toad brake van and a couple of 5 plank opens, after all they have been on the workbench for over a year ! Line side fencing, telegraph poles and platform lamps are needed as are a few figures and additional details. A second Pannier tank with the old style cab will be the next loco to appear followed by the Deans Goods which was mentioned some months ago.

Anyway thank you for following The Chronicles over the past year, and here is wishing you all....

A Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year
                                             Best Wishes

Geoff

Progress, News and Waffle.............

2011-12-03T18:56:00.000Z

With the end of the year fast approaching and modelling time about to be swallowed up by a festive break, cheer and chores this will most likely be the last update of the year.
So what's new ?..........Well like many fans of the WR Hydraulics I have been waiting for the release of Dapols Class 22. I never, ever pre order because despite rumours of shortages there always seems to be plenty of models to go around. At some point I might be caught out but I doubt it, so keeping my wallet firmly shut I sat back and waited for the reviews of this new model. As everyone who had reviewed a sample was impressed and liking what I had read and seen I decided to take the plunge and order one.

Now since my local model shop closed down and with no others in the area I have been dealing by mail order with http://www.modellers-mecca.co.uk/ This company has proved to be a reliable source for all my general modelling needs, kits, RTR, etc, which saves me having to spend time shopping around to find the things I need. Service and prices are hard to beat, to give you an example I ordered my Class 22 on a Monday evening and it was on my doorstep first thing Wednesday morning. But wait for it........the price was £25 less than one of the largest discount dealers in the country ! The lesson is to check with a proper model shop before parting with your hard earned cash and support them whenever you can.

Here we are fresh out of the box with the separate side valences fitted but still awaiting the addition of the other detailing parts, all of which come with the model. The box is rather nice too and makes a pleasant change from the poor packaging we have come to expect.

Conversion to EM using the existing wheels is quick and easy and might be covered in another posting should the interest be there. Suffice to say after testing the model on my 00 test track I soon had it converted to EM and running on the layout. The slow smooth running is an absolute joy and the super creep motor does just that......... truly excellent !

The following photos show the model on the layout but still awaiting detailing and a little light weathering.

A local looks on as D6331 in ex works condition departs from Penhydd

On duty with milk tanks at the creamery, notice the individual strips of corrugated sheeting being fitted to the water tower tank top.

So much for the Class 22, let's take a look at the creamery..................


Since the last visit you can see how the chimney has been clad in stone sheet and weathered. The perimeter wall has also been painted and weathered. Work is very much in progress on the water tower tank top and the landforms in the foreground have been prepared for the top dressing of Siflor grass etc.


One thing I hoped to create was the sight of the creamery chimney beyond the road bridge when viewed from the goods yard., I think it works well but then again I would ?

Last but not least I am really pleased to mention that an article on Penhydd Station will appear in the next issue of Model Railway Journal No.211 which is due out next week, so if I can do it so can you !

Geoff

Whatever Happened to the Creamery Building ?

2011-11-29T16:51:00.001Z

Last week I mentioned a final update before taking a break and finding some winter sunshine, well here it is.
It has been a good few months since I last mentioned the creamery building and for a good reason. You see despite plenty of planning and various mock ups, when I came to add the finishing touches I found myself taking a long hard look at it and came to the conclusion that it looked out of place, so having salvaged the roof and canopy I scrapped it !

The original building, only the chimney, canopy and water tower survive.

What was wrong with it you may ask ? Well to be honest I felt a brick built ornate Victorian style building was not suitable for a rural setting. I needed something more rustic and in keeping with a country location, something which would blend in with the rest of the layout.
Having made the decision to start all over again a new idea was needed and after seeing the article on Burford in MRJ 210 my thoughts turned to something similar in style to Ashburton maltings.
Once again a mock up was made and various adjustments to shape and overall proportions carried until I came up with this.

The complete site mock up in it's latest form

Once happy I decided to clad the walls in Slater's embossed random stone sheet. The other building was clad in Wills corrugated iron sheet and is still under construction Windows have been made up from Evergreen strip with rainwater goods and roof slates from Wills material packs.

There are two entry roads to the site, the main one being in the left background against the retaining wall. The rough card mock will become an office block and shield the road from view as it merges into the back scene.

More details of the site can be found in a previous post titled "The Best Laid Plans Of Mice and Men"

Slowly it's all coming together, the water tower will feature a curved corrugated iron roof rather than the one shown here. To help you visualise the complete site then imagine plenty of long grass and weeds, rusty iron and weathered wood.

Cheers for now,
Geoff

.

The Penhydd Album Vol.1

2011-11-26T19:43:00.001Z

Following a recent photo shoot I thought I would share a few new images with you all. So lets take a journey along the line starting from the station.

A view of the water tower, feedstore and cattle dock, it must be too hot for work today as not a soul can be seen.

An ex GWR Railcar is about to depart on a local passenger service.on a hazy summers day.

The Railcar gets underway, I like to take a mix of both colour and black and white photographs.

The fireman on 1455 passes the time of day with a local, no doubt the driver has nipped across to the signal box for a brew.

The pick up goods returning to Presteign

The signal is off for the arrival of a late afternoon branch passenger, whilst a solitary 12t van and coal wagon stand in a deserted goods yard.

Even the coal yard is quiet and surely the branch cannot stay open much longer ?

The Best Laid Plans of Mice and Men...........

2011-11-25T16:43:00.002Z

With the gardening season over and having finished a couple of articles for the model press I was expecting progress on the creamery extension board to be rapid. Alas I didn't allow for some chores around the house such as a touch of decorating !
So with all distractions out of the way and Christmas shopping in the bag the last week has seen me playing catch up before we leave for a winter break in warmer climates.
I had hoped to have everything complete by the end of the year but it looks like it will be early in the New Year before my new Class 22 is seen propelling milk tanks down to the completed creamery.

As you can see work is still very much in progress but I am getting there slowly. The area of rubble to the left is being prepared ready for the installation of a water tower. Imagine lots of weed, long grass and undergrowth and you will get the picture.

The complete creamery site has now been planned out, track laid and some of the scenery extended. The whole ground area including the track has been covered in Das modelling clay and the lengthy process of scribing set stones in it's surface has commenced. This job isn't as bad as I imagined and once into the swing of things it is rather pleasant to see the stones emerge one by one. Having some relaxing music playing and a decent single malt to hand also adds to the enjoyment.

What a mess I hear you say, but once the wall has been finished and the card lattice covered in a paper / plaster mix it will look much better and begin to make sense. The main building will be sited behind the tank wagon and if you look to the left of it you might just be able to see some set stones carved into the Das. Road entry to the site is from the rear and will be partly hidden by another building placed in front of it. The foreground will be covered in long grass similar to the other embankments and cuttings.

More progress should be made next week with perhaps another update, well if all goes to plan it will ?

1455.......

2011-10-18T20:23:00.000+01:00

I must admit that 1455 has been a little neglected what with the recent modification's to the goods yard and scenery. She was completed a few weeks ago but proved to be a bit light on her feet. A bit of weight placed in the tanks in the form of car wheel balance weights worked wonders, the self adhesive weights for alloy wheels being just the job. They come on a strip of assorted sizes and are very useful for adding weight to items of stock, your local tyre depot should be able to fix you up if you ask nicely.

As usual I made up my own brass number plates from Martin Finney etches securing them to the cab sides with a spot of matt varnish. The early BR crest, smoke box number and route availability dot, yellow in this case came from various sources such a Modelmaster and the HMRS sheets.
For weathering I first gave the whole model a thin wash of Precision Dirty black and then added a mix of light earth and rust to various areas taking care not to over do it. A little dusting over with weathering powders finished the job off.

Anyway here is the completed model...........

The line drops ever so slightly just behind the first tank and prior to adding some weight 1455 could hardly lift herself up the gradient, let alone haul a train of tanks.

Having taken water 1455 prepares to run round it's train of milk tanks before heading back down the branch.

Static grass helps to give an overgrown look to the goods yard, bushes are made from horsehair.

If you fancy upgrading your own 14XX then try and track down Model Railway Journals No.1 and No.2, in which Iain Rice takes a look at both the model and prototype.

Geoff.

The goods yard revisited............

2011-10-10T09:54:00.000+01:00

Since Penhydd first saw the light of day many changes have been made to the original plan and none more so than in the goods yard. Originally I intended to use the goods shed from my previous model of Fairford but although it would fit the space available it looked way too big and out of place. So as a temporary measure I used a Ratio Provender store kit which I had in stock, spinning a story that the old shed had been burnt down and so a modern replacement had been provided to take it's place.
Eventually I came to build the current shed which is loosely based on the one at Hemyock, and a small wooden office to go with it.
The yard crane which once stood on a small rectangular platform at the end of one of the sidings ended up being moved between the goods shed and the weighbridge office.

Turning back the clock I came up with these old photos, how things have changed !

The crane was scratch built using Slater's microstrip together with odds and ends from the scrap box.

Following the extension of the coal yard siding to the creamery the crane has been moved again and is now on the site of the old coal yard.

This is a view of the yard in it's current state, moving the loading gauge has made it easier to take photographs of trains arriving and departing. I also think that the yard is more balanced the way it is now ?

Not content with that I moved the loading gauge to where the crane stood !

Like the signals the loading gauge is removable for routine maintenance such as track cleaning. It is attached to a brass base to which some tube has been soldered to form a peg. The whole model then locates in a hole drilled into the baseboard.

Having made the latest changes, the goods yard now looks like this........

A couple of empty ex PO wagons and a solitary van await the arrival of the pick up goods. I think the whole yard has a spacious open feel to it, with the overgrown track suggesting an air of neglect. This is how I remember a typical country goods yard, for the best part of the time nothing ever happened. The yard crane had long since rusted up and the only sign of life was the coal merchant unloading wagons.

A fence made from scrap corrugated iron sheets is slowly being added along the coal yard perimeter. The tree casts some lovely shadows over the bridge entrance. I plan on adding more hedges and bushes along the profile board edge as well as fencing.

The coal merchants office has been made from some left over kit components and the corrugated iron roof is from Slater's sheet material cut into strips and overlaid as per the real thing. A standpipe and tap is attached to the front wall, other detail will include coal sacks and scales together with an assortment of tools. There is far more space between the milk tank and the bridge walls than the photo would have you believe ! The long grass and overgrown track has been built up by applying static grass to both Silflor mat and bare baseboard.

The best static grass fibres that I have come across are by miniNatur, being available in several different lengths and natural colours. To apply them I just use my old faithful Puffer Bottle, I can't really see the point in buying an expensive applicator or modifying an electronic fly swatter because with a little care and practice the Puffer Bottle works well. The trick is to separate the fibres between finger and thumb before loading it, hold it at ninety degrees and as close to the surface as you can. A thin coat of neat PVA is brushed over the area to be covered or if applying on top of other scenic material then artist spray mount or hairspray is used.
It is best to use dark fibres first followed by lighter ones, which will give you a dark green base to the grass blades and a straw coloured sun bleached tip so typical of the grass found on railway embankments and rough ground.
So apart from the small detail the goods yard is more or less complete, this means the creamery can now be completed and not before time !

However before I start to do that our old friend 1455 deserves a mention and will form the next update later this week.

Penhydd Hall Lane.........

2011-10-02T23:21:00.001+01:00

In my fictional history of Penhydd the old manor house Penhydd Hall no longer stands, as like so many other country houses it fell into ruin after the last war. However the estate is still home to several tenant farmers whose land is reached by travelling down Penhydd Hall Lane.

Only farm traffic crosses over the railway and as a result the lane is becoming overgrown. Long grass is made from Silflor and static grass, the latter having been applied with a simple "puffer bottle" Hedges are made from strips of rubberised horsehair which is sprayed dark grey then given a dressing of Anita Decor foliage. The road is silver sand applied onto wet grey primer, sealed with a plaster / PVA slurry and then painted,with a mix of Paynes Grey and White acrylic paint. The shadows cast by the tree are annoying but a new lighting rig will hopefully take care of them. Fencing is of the Ratio four bar type, thinned down then painted in Precision paints Weathered Wood.

Before and after views showing how the Ratio fencing can be improved by simply running a scalpel along the bars thus creating the correct triangular section of the timbers. The post have also been thinned down to give a much finer appearance to what is a useful product. It is possible to bend the fencing to follow the contours of the landform by immersing it in hot water then gently shaping between finger and thumb

A view showing the new cutting with long grasses, hedges and bushes. Details of the cuttings and scenic work on the new extension will soon follow as will the installation of the creamey buildings.

Another view of the lane as it threads it's way over the railway.

With the lane all but complete my next job will be to make a few changes in the goods yard area and then the creamey will be completed. Mind you there are a few other projects being worked on at the same time so what will appear first is open to question ?

Scenery with Silflor

2011-09-26T15:14:00.000+01:00

Last week saw me building up the new embankments and cuttings on the creamery extension. It didn't take long for the plaster to set leaving me with a firm foundation on which to build up the scenery.
Now I must admit I enjoy this part of the hobby and take a lot of satisfaction from seeing an idea come to life in front of my eyes. I compare it with painting a picture, only in our case as modellers it's a moving one in 3D.
So with an expanse of snow white plaster in front of me I set about painting it all. For this I mixed up some Burnt Sienna and Dark Green acrylic paint and brushed it all over the surface to give a sort of muddy green camouflage effect. Once dry I applied a coat of PVA to seal it all and left it overnight to dry.

From previous post here on the blog and elsewhere you will know that I am a huge fan of Silflor and I make no excuse for mentioning this superb product again. One of it's strengths is that unlike other materials you can salvage it and reuse it, so the high first cost isn't as bad as you think when spread across a couple of layouts. Should you make a mistake or want to rework any scenic features then you can simply remove it and lay it again. Add it's realistic appearance and ease of use to that argument and the product presents a good case for parting with your hard earned cash.

My plan of action was to reinstate the goods yard scenery first, followed by the lane and then to tackle the new cuttings and embankments. The idea being to have all the basic ground cover in place and then to add hedges, trees and other detail at leisure.
In an earlier post I mentioned how the old rock cutting next to the overbridge had been removed in one piece and put aside to be used again. So a start was made on trimming this old plaster casting so it would fit back in place. This was necessary because the angle of the bridge where it crosses the approach track is slightly different. I also wanted to adjust the angle of the rock face as previously it was too steep for my liking.


Once the rock cutting had been put in place the old tree at the end of the lane was replanted and various new bushes and hedges made from sea moss covered with Anita Decor foliage. Next the signal was plugged back in place , there is still some work to do in this area such as adding a few saplings, weeds and such.

Working from the backscene to the front of the layout the scene was gradually built up.

Here we have a mix of Silflor, which is mainly rough winter pasture in both long and short lengths. Bridge wing walls will be completed now the grass embankments are finished. The white area between the two bridges is where the back wall of a small coal office will be sited.


Long dry grass has slowly taken root and the old goods yard tree refurbished and planted further to the left to clear the new siding. I rather like the shadow that it casts over the bridge. The four bar fencing is by Ratio but has been slightly modified by making the bars a triangular section rather than round.as it comes out of the pack This is easily done by scraping along them with a scalpel and makes a huge difference to this useful product, I still have a short section of fence to add to the left of the bridge.


An early view of the creamery bridge and it's entrance, it's still very much work in progress at the moment. The fencing shows up a little better in this photo and you can see the hedge on the other side of the road. The coal yard is not as cramped as it looks and much detail is yet to be added to this scene.

Penhydd Hall Lane twist and turns as it crosses the railway, I have tried to give the effect of the lane dropping downwards as it approaches the backscene. Since this photo was taken more weeds have been added to the centre of the lane.

This is as far as the scenic treatment has reached at the moment, a quick hop over the lane brings us to the new part of the layout in it's bare state.


Silflor is best applied in clumps rather than one piece, the various colours and textures being blended together bit by bit. I use dabs of contact adhesive to secure it which makes it's removal easy. Small strands have been carefully placed between the boulders to give the effect of grass growing out of the various gaps. The rock cutting in the background will be treated in the same manner.

Just to give you an idea of the base colour and how the various contours will link together giving the effect of rolling countryside, at the same time disguising the cassette deck.

So there we are, work will continue over the coming weeks and another update will follow once there is more to show.

Landscaping and getting plastered !

2011-09-19T15:24:00.002+01:00

With all the bridge works completed the next job was to form the landscape. I had a picture in my mind as to how I wanted the scene to look and also did a few rough sketches to work from.
There are many ways of creating embankments and other scenic features but for such a small layout I find making card formers and then adding a lattice of woven card over them works well.
It's cheap, cheerful and rather fun, it's also green as well because you can recycle old cardboard though some might argue that it has been sent for landfill !

On viewing the following photo sequence you might think that it is a lot of work but I reckon it only took me 4 - 6 hours to do the lot. Of course I didn't do it in one shot, just an hour here and there whilst I did other chores around the layout, house and garden !


Looking down from the road which has been both widened and realigned you can see the landscape formers in place.

The formers are just pieces of corrugated cardboard roughly cut to shape and glued in place with either a contact adhesive or hot glue gun. The van is on one of the cassettes and once scenic detail has been added to the top of the embankment it should no longer be visible.

The milk tank serves to give you an idea of scale, the right hand embankment has a card lattice in place ready for a paper and plaster top layer.

The lattice for all the embankments is made from strips of cereal packaging which can be seen here being overlaid with layers of newspaper cut into triangular pieces. They are cut to this shape as they more easily follow the contours of the formers without creasing. Each piece of paper is soaked in a plaster / PVA mix, I use Polyfilla for this job which is mixed to the consistency of double cream, the PVA helps prevent cracking, so I am told ? The pieces are carefully laid in place and brushed with more mix then more overlapping pieces added to build up a hard shell.

Here we are well and truly plastered ! The piece of hardboard strip will form a support for a stone wall which will run behind the creamery.

At the moment it looks like a cross between the white cliff's of Dover and a moonscape ! The rock face has been roughly moulded from Das modelling clay and will be further carved once hard.

Finally here is the intended arrangement of the scenic detail.

The idea is for a line of overgrown hedges, bushes and long grass along the top of the near embankment to act as a view blocker for the cassettes and blend in with the embankment behind and backscene. The old tree which stood beyond the road bridge will be refitted in the same place, (see the second photo) with some smaller saplings beside it. The stone retaining wall will be of random stone with overgrown grass on top of it. In front of the creamery building will be another area of unkempt long grass.

Almost forgot this one showing the goods yard, this will be the first section to be completed and then the layout will be more or less restored in this area. I do however have a few surprises in store !

Having made the basic landforms it's now time to paint the surfaces in a ground colour and then seal everything before adding the scenic dressing of your choice. All of this will be covered in the next installment.

Bridge update...........

2011-09-15T14:18:00.001+01:00

Clicking on the link will take you to an older post which has been updated......

http://thechroniclesofpenhydd.blogspot.com/2011/08/contractors-talept-2-building-bridges.html

Reading Matter

2011-09-15T13:47:00.004+01:00

Most of you will be aware that Penhydd is fictionally located on the Presteign branch. My idea being that the line was extended with a view to making a connection with the LNWR Central Wales line near Knighton.
On reading this little book which my friend Simon Dunkley kindly sent me, I found out that such a scheme was indeed proposed. Whilst the real extension was abandoned due to lack of investment my own plans for a through station were abandoned due to a lack of space !

The book is full of interesting and useful information for anyone who wishes to learn more about the branch lines in the old counties of Radnorshire (now Powys) and Herefordshire. Apart from a full history of the railways it also includes some timetables which have come in very handy for planning the operating sequence for Penhydd. There are also plenty of interesting photographs to support the text together with track plans and gradient profiles. A journey along the line from Kington to New Radnor is also described by one of the firemen. What's more I now have the name of the local coal merchant and no doubt his premises in Penhydd goods yard will soon have the correct sign displayed.

Welsh Interlude Pt. 3

2011-09-09T21:10:00.000+01:00

One of the joy's of retirement is being able to go anywhere at anytime and so last week we once again travelled to Mid-Wales to get away from it all. On our last visit to this lovely area we called at Welshpool in the hope of catching a glimpse of steam on The Welshpool & Llanfair Railway at Raven Square station. Unfortunately the place was crowded and so we decided to visit Llanfair instead, see............

http://thechroniclesofpenhydd.blogspot.com/2011/08/welsh-interlude-pt-2.html

http://www.wllr.org.uk/information.htm#The%20Preservation%20Era

On our return visit to Welshpool we planned our arrival just before the first train of the day was due and were lucky that not many people were around, so photography was unhindered.
I particularly wanted to explore the station building which is of Midland Railway parentage and once stood at Eardisley on the Hereford and Brecon Railway. There is a plaque on the main entrance wall which states that the building was only a temporary affair because of the Crimea War, being erected at Eardisley in 1903 !

Anyway time for some photos.....

Station Approach

The following photo sequence shows the arrival of a train from Llanfair and it's departure.

After taking water and a quick brew up The Earl ran around it's train ready for departure.

As you can see it's a rather steep climb for departing trains.

The train had arrived over twenty minutes late and there was talk of technical problems ?

With a whistle and in a cloud of steam The Earl departed

I was really surprised just how easily The Earl lifted it's train out of the station and up the bank !

The End

The Platelayers Tale

2011-09-07T20:32:00.003+01:00

For the new section of track leading to the creamery I was going to experiment with individual ply sleepers and C and L chairs, then thought it would be a waste of time really as the track is being modelled overgrown and in a cutting. So having some spare C and L sleeper bases and steel rail in stock I decided to use those instead.
Having assembled the track it was temporarily laid in place and holes marked and drilled in the baseboard for the power supply dropper wires which I soldered to the underside of the rail thus giving an invisible connection.
With the cork trackbed prepared a thin layer of Evo-Stick was applied to the sleepers only and not to the web between them, the reason for this will become clear later.
The track was then laid into position and using a mirror held against the rail ends I checked the alignment and for any kinks by looking at the tracks reflection, any anomalies being gently eased before the Evo-Stick went off.
Next using a small sharp scalpel the web between the sleepers was cut away, this simple modification makes a huge difference in the appearance of the track..

You can judge for yourself as to whether the track looks better with the web removed in this photo. I must give credit to Tim Maddocks who first brought this idea to my attention whilst reading an account of his "Engine Wood " layout in the model press.

Why not take a look at Tim's own website where you will find some really inspiring modelling. ............. http://www.enginewood.co.uk/

Ballasting is something I dread, these days Carr's ash is my preferred material and I apply it into a bed of neat PVA which is brushed between the sleepers. Only a short length of around six sleepers are done at a time and the result is a nicely ballasted track. Because the sleeper web has been cut away it is easy to direct the ballast under the rails and exactly where you want it. This is another of Tim's ideas and though it sounds time consuming it isn't too bad once you get into the swing of things.
For sidings I also mix a little green scatter into the ash to represent weeds which can be built up later with static grass.

Having seen the effects Chris Nevard created by using modelling clay to represent compacted ballast which is almost level with the sleeper tops I decided to experiment on a short section of the siding using his idea.
.
Take a look at this from a scenic master........

http://nevardmedia.blogspot.com/2011/08/creating-effect-of-ash-ballast.html

The following photos show the siding as it is today.

Das clay has been applied between the sleepers on a short section of track with Carr's ash ballast on the remainder. Humbrol Matt Light Earth enamel has been used to colour the ballast. This is applied neat in random patches on a small section at a time and then a drop of thinners is added, capillary action then draws the paint down into the ballast. leaving a nice variation in colour. The rail and chairs have been painted in Precision Light Rust / Light Earth mix and the sleepers in a mix of Light Earth and Precision Track Colour ( Weathered Sleepers )

This photo shows how the sleepers are more or less flush with the surrounding ground which was is so typical of goods yard sidings.

The new bridge is almost complete and the old one has been raised 4mm as it was a little low. They have both been fitted in place temporarily whilst the scene is planned out. Once the coal merchant had been relocated the area around it was cleared of long grass and levelled off. Coal is the real thing and very fine coal dust has been sprinkled around.
The grass was then reinstated around the new siding to give an overgrown look. The base board joint is visible at the end of the track crossing and will be further disguised with grass.

Grass and weeds are made from Silflor and MiniNatur static grass with a few grass tufts added for good measure. At the moment the track looks a little too overgrown but the excess static grass fibres will be removed with the vac.later.

This more or less wraps up the platelayers tale until the creamery is connected but first of all the bridges need to be completed then installed and the scenery reinstated on the goods yard section.

1455 .......an update

2011-08-26T16:23:00.000+01:00

Despite being busy working on the Creamery extension progress has been continuing on 1455.
The photo below shows the conversion almost complete and though it looks rough, once cleaned up and primed it will look different again.
When I first started to do mods. like this I would look at the mess created, loose heart and ask myself, "what have I done" ? It's a bit like home improvement really as you have to make a mess before you can make things better. I was lucky to find a photo of 1455 at Hereford which was it's home shed. So I am more or less certain that my model is accurate. If you are lucky enough to own or come across Model Railway Journals No1 and No.2 then you will find an excellent two part article by Iain Rice with many useful photos and general arrangement drawings covering both prototype and his own conversion of the Airfix model.
There is also a general drawing of the class in January 1997 edition of The Railway Modeller and as a bonus one for an autocoach as well. Whilst not 100 % accurate they do give the main dimensions. Further information can be found on the following websites...........

http://www.gwsr.com/news/features/steam-locomotive-features/14xx-autotanks.aspx

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GWR_1400_Class

This rather cruel enlargement shows some of the detail that has been added which includes; New whistles and shield, safety valve, cast tank fillers and vents. New chimney, smoke box door and dart, handrails and lamp irons Both buffer beams have riveted overlays, sprung buffers, vacuum and steam pipes. The auto train control linkage can be seen behind the coupling nestled between the brake gear. The roof has been thinned down, the original tool boxes cut away and replaced with ones made from styrene. You can also see that they have been moved further forward to suit my chosen member of the prototype.

I suppose you could say that I have gone to extreme lengths carrying out so much work but you must remember that this model dates from the 70's and the standard of current RTR has improved so much since then.

The roof has not yet been secured in place as the sliding vent is going to be modelled in the open position, a crew and glazing are also yet to be fitted. The original pipework along the running plate has been thinned down by gently scraping it with the edge of a craft knife. The bunker hooks are pieces of scrap etch formed to shape around a suitably sized drill shank. The biggest modification was the removal of the top feed and it's pipes which makes a huge difference to the look of the model.

The cab has been fitted with a floor a bunker back and cast backhead. The original plastic coal load has been removed and a styrene blank fitted ready for a load of the real thing. Looking at the photo I think that I will thin down the cab side sheets and door tops as they look rather chunky, mind you when the roof is in place you hardly notice.

Painting has been carried out with a simple black aerosol and a start has been made on weathering the chassis. Once the BR Lion on a wheel emblem and No.plates have been fitted the rest of the model will be weathered then protected with a coat of matt varnish.
During running trials 1455 proved a little light footed and was prone to slipping when lifting four six wheel milk tanks out of the creamery siding. Some lead sheet in the side tanks and boiler have corrected that problem and she is now settling down handling both milk traffic and local passenger services.
Parts for the conversion have come from a number of sources, and most with the exception of the buffer beam overlays can be obtained from Mainly Trains, either separately or has a detailing kit.
Ref. MT222.
The last installment will follow soon..........................

One for the future..... Dean Goods 2538

2011-08-25T13:51:00.004+01:00

Those of you who follow my wittering will know that I always have several projects on the go at once. This is something that I can't help doing and I have always been surrounded by half built models. This isn't as bad as it sounds because it helps maintain interest, as when one project grinds to a halt due to some unexpected problem or boring procedure I take a little break and do something else whilst I ponder how best to proceed, then return to the original project with renewed enthusiasm. Of course this approach isn't for everyone and I take my hat off to those dedicated souls who can see a project through from beginning to end without any distractions.
I am also in the habit of planning future projects well in advance, buying in the parts I need as they become available as in this day and age you never know how long they will be on the market.

Current projects involve the Creamery extension, Collett 0-4-2T 1455 , a Toad and some 5-plank opens. The Creamery as you know is currently being worked on, 1455 is all but complete with just the crew to paint and cab interior to finish off. As for the Toad, well having been on the workbench for six months with the opens to keep it company I guess it can wait a little longer !
When I started to plan Penhydd not only did I want to take a journey back in time to recreate the fifties and early sixties but also to have an example of my favourite locomotives to run upon it. Fortunately I favour the small locomotives so typically used on the country branch line, one of which happens to be the inside frame Dean Goods.

Click on the links for prototype information and pictures.............

GWR 2301 Class - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Images for DEAN GOODS

The prototype with it's low axle weight could go anywhere and quite a few ended up on the Cambrian until they were displaced by the Collett Goods and more modern Ivatt 2MT 2-6-0 tender engines. It is interesting to note that during steaming trials at Swindon Works it was found that the old Dean Goods was more efficient than the Ivatt design and as a result the more modern locos were modified !

My first attempt at building a Dean Goods was based around the old K's white metal kit. The body casting were rather good for their day but the keyhole chassis stamped out of a mix of fibre for one frame and metal for the other was another matter. The wheels and motor were also rather poor, however despite these shortcomings several modellers with more skills than I managed to produce fine running examples of the model, alas mine was a disaster and never ran well at all.
Since then the old K's kit has passed into the Autocom range and then to Nucast along with most other kits they originally produced. With no other suitable kit available at the time and in those far off days not having the skills to make my own chassis, the announcement by Airfix that they were planning to introduce a Dean Goods was welcomed with open arms.
However when the model was at last produced by Mainline it featured a tender drive, the gears of which were visible on the chassis and the body had a heaped load of moulded coal to hide the motor. In short it was to me a big disappointment, the loco body was however nicely modelled and so the possibility of at last owning a model of the class came a little nearer.

My current Dean Goods complete with a botched conversion. She proved to be a noisy and temperamental beast falling far short of the running standards I required.

Modelling as I do in EM means any RTR model has to be re wheeled or have a new chassis built for it. So I am always on the look out for used donor models rather than new ones and it didn't take me long to find a none running Mainline example rather cheaply. Curiosity got the better of me and I soon had the model stripped to see why it wouldn't run. The fault was quickly traced to the tender drive gears and proved easy to correct but what of conversion to EM ?

I remembered Paul Bason writing an article in BRM about converting an Airfix 4F which shares the same tender drive as the Dean Goods to EM. A search through my back numbers found it in the September 2000 issue. Using Paul's methods I soon had a working EM model but no matter how I tried I could not get it to run as quietly or as smoothly as I wanted. A search through my collection of odds and ends resulted in me finding an old K's tender drive unit but that was even worse ! So the model was returned to it's box and only saw limited use until I had the time to build a decent chassis for it.

It took the announcement by Comet Models of an etched loco chassis to suit the Airfix / Mainline model together with replacement etched tender frames to reignited my interest in at last building an example of the class. A quick look at my 1955 Ian Allan Combined Volume showed only two members of the class still in service by this time, 2516 which was preserved and 2538. I choose 2538 as it's home shed was 89A Oswestry and thus well suited for my layout.

Comet recommend a Mashima 1015 motor and their GB4 gearbox, however I choose Gibson rather than Markits.
I intend fitting a rolled up cab tarpaulin under the roof, a turned smoke box dart, etched No.plates and a nicely detailed crew. The unsightly mound of coal will be removed from the tender and it will be modelled half full.
Dave Cleal of Mainly Trains supplied all the parts needed and despite not stocking the huge range he once did he still provides a fantastic mail order service. http://www.mainlytrains.co.uk/acatalog/index.html


On the left are the chassis frames with Gibson crank pins and wheels Centre top is the Comet GB4 gearbox and Mashima 1015 motor. To the top right you can see the tender chassis and below are the etched tender frames which come with white metal axle box castings and buffers.

As mentioned in the title this is one for the future and I will be breaking new ground as the chassis will be fully sprung using Comets new hornblocks. I expect it will be a winter project and be up and running by the end of the year.

The Contractors Tale ....Pt 3 Baseboard Mods.

2011-08-18T20:05:00.000+01:00

With the bridge modifications carried out and road levels plotted I turned my attention to modifying the old cassette deck. The frame was constructed about ten years ago and had seen service on at least one other layout. Built from good quality marine ply it has two beams along it's length with softwood spacers sandwiched between them, cross members are of the same construction. All parts are simply screwed and glued together which makes for a really good strong baseboard. It speaks volumes for this method of construction when after so many years the frames are still true.

I had calculated that the width of the frames would need increasing by 4" and so I made four softwood 'L' shaped spacers of various widths so the profile board would slowly taper inwards to match up with the other baseboards. Once screwed and glued into the old frame spacers a hardboard facia cut to the required profile was glued and pinned to them. The facia takes no weight and so I had no worries about using hardboard for this job.

The lower sections of the backscene will be covered over by both an embankment and Limestone cutting, leaving around 1/2" of the horizon visible below an expanse of sky, this is a useful dodge for giving a feeling of depth to the scene. The piece of ply in the background is the foundation for the cutting which will have rough grass and bushes above it. Cassettes will be located where the length of track is and will be shielded from view by a retaining wall and embankment behind the Creamery buildings.

In this view you can see the 'L' shaped softwood spacers and how the baseboard frame has been extended in width. The Creamery building will butt up to the trackbed and an overgrown area of grass will be modelled in front of it. Additional Creamery buildings will be added in the bottom left hand corner, I have a few ideas in mind and will no doubt create my usual cereal packet mock ups to work out the best arrangement.

Once I was happy with the appearance of the facia a new backscene board was made. This is just a piece of hardboard attached to a softwood frame for support and the whole lot screwed to the baseboard. I was lucky to have two pieces of matching backscene left and these were attached to the hardboard using wallpaper paste
The top surface, cassettes and trackbed are all from 6mm MDF, it is important to seal this material as moisture from wet ballasting and scenic work can cause no end of problems. A proprietary sealant was brushed over all the surfaces, not forgetting the edges and when dry another coat was applied for good measure.

This is the current situation and you can see how the whole layout has been opened up. The trees and and embankment between the bridges are just roughly in place to give you an idea of how the completed scene will look. I expect you have noticed that I have changed the design of the plate girder on the new bridge. I wasn't actually 100 % happy with the previous design and it didn't take much time or effort to build the replacements which I think look much better. I am really pleased with the excellent appearance of the embankment grass which is made from Silflor

So whats next ?................
Well once the bridges have been painted I will be turning my attention to the new length of track and once it is ballasted and weathered the bridges can be reinstated together with the goods yard scenery.

The Contractors Tale....Pt. 2 Building Bridges Updated....

2011-08-13T17:04:00.003+01:00

I closed the last installment of the contractors tale with a photo of 4678 being used to check the clearances of the proposed new bridge. Things have moved along since then and the bridge is now nearing completion. Once again I turned to my favoured stone finish for the bridge so as to keep a uniform construction material throughout the layout, which I feel gives it a sense of identity.

I use Evo-Stick for attaching the styrene sheet to card , double sided tape can also be used if the risk of melting the styrene worries you. A thin, even application of the adhesive applied to both surfaces is all that is needed.

The shell of the bridge abutments can be seen on the left, these are just 4mm Daler board and other scraps of card. On the right is the other abutment which has been clad in Slater's embossed dressed stone sheet. I really like this material as it is more to scale than others which are available and the relief isn't too deep. A selection of plate girder components from the Wills Vari Girder kit can be seen in the foreground.

In the above photo you can see how the thickness of the pilasters is being built up with scraps of card. The photo below shows how scraps of small square section strip wood have been used to give strength to the corner joints. A stone course has been added and the strip of styrene above it will form the bearing plates for the bridge girders.

Though I do a lot of scratch building I am not against using components such as these lovely detailed bridge parts from Wills.

Here we have both abutments and one plate girder ready to be dressed and painted prior to assembly.
I have adapted one of the girder panels to make a short span, all the components are assembled onto both sides of a styrene sheet backing and then the top plates are fitted.

The angle of the wing wall will be adjusted once the embankment has been trimmed back.. When the adjustment has been carried out the coping stones will be added and the wing walls completed. Note that the track is not distorted, it's just the camera giving that effect !

With the new bridge in place the clearances are being checked once again prior to final assembly and painting. It will be moved slightly to the left once the embankment has been trimmed back a touch In the distance a milk tank can be seen in the Creamery.
I intend the approach to the bridge to be rather overgrown with plenty of trees, bushes and weeds.
A wooden fence will run along the top of the embankment with plenty of long grasses around the post and lower rails.

Next week should see the new back scene fitted in place and new facia board attached to the widened cassette deck. With that job out of the way and the new bridge painted the whole bridge section can be refitted in place and scenery on the goods yard side reinstated.

Progress has been steady since returning from holiday and towards the end of last week the new and modified old bridges have been installed on the layout. The road has also been realigned, resurfaced and widened.


Both bridge abutments and girders have been weathered, the white patch is a replacement for the old signal sighting board. A start has been made on the scenery, most of which has been salvaged from the old scene. The card lattice work is a support for the new embankment as is the piece on the side of the left hand bridge wing wall. The long grass is a mixture of Silflor mat and static grass.

With the civil engineering complete it is time to hand over to the landscaping crew and a step by step photo sequence will soon follow as the scene is completed.

The Contractors Tale..........Pt. 1

2011-08-07T18:53:00.003+01:00

You may remember an earlier post titled " Planning and a minor distraction " in which I mentioned plans to rework the goods yard and cassette deck so Pentre Felin Creamery could have rail access.
Well a few weeks ago the contractors moved in and dismantled the end back scene, road bridge and scenery. The facia board in front of the cassette deck was also removed so as to allow widening of the deck ready for the new track.

The old road bridge and embankment had been built in jigsaw fashion and were removed from the layout in one piece without causing any damage. Next the coal yard was relocated to the other siding and the old overgrown track that once served it was ripped up.

Once the old cork underlay had been removed the MDF top surface was prepared and sealed ready for new 1/8 th cork strip to be laid. I must admit that I prefer cork to the foam underlays now available as I find it much easier to maintain a flat and level track bed.

I thought you might find this photo of my landscape forming methods of interest. The basic shell is made up from strips of old cereal packet woven together. Then old newspaper is torn up into triangular pieces and dipped into a plaster / PVA mix before being laid in place. Why triangular pieces ? well you will find that they follow your proposed contours with ease and will not crease. The PVA gives a little flexibility to the plaster mix and when the layers have been built up and fully dry the foundation is remarkably strong.

It was my intention to build two new bridges but seeing as the original survived intact I decided to use it again. However the chance was taken to raise it's height by another 4mm as my new Standard tank was a little too tall to pass underneath. The pilasters are also being increased in width as the old ones were perhaps too small.
On the extreme left you can see the new bridge abutments being tried for size. These are made from Daler Board overlaid with Slater's stone courses. The one on the right was completed today and I am hoping the whole bridge section will be finished this week.

As you can see the new siding has been laid but awaits the sleeper web being cut away which will transform it's appearance no end, ballasting with Carr's ash will follow.
Meanwhile pannier 4678 is drawing a rake of four tanks under the bridge whilst the new section is checked for clearances.

To be continued...........................

Welsh Interlude. ( Pt. 2 )

2011-08-07T16:57:00.000+01:00

It's been a rather quiet few weeks on the modelling front. A weeks holiday in Mid Wales saw us exploring the old Cambrian network and a pleasant morning was spent at Llanfair Caereinion the headquarters of the Welshpool and Llanfair Railway. I was hoping for a glimpse of steam but I should have checked the timetable. However I did take a few photos of the station buildings and a couple of early diesel shunters.

The station entrance

I was hoping to view the station building at the Raven Square terminal in Welshpool . As it once stood at Eardisley on the Midland Railway branch from Three Cocks Junction to Hereford. Unfortunately it was impossible to get a picture thanks to hoards of school children, so we beat a hasty retreat !

1455................ the next chapter

2011-07-23T10:41:00.001+01:00

In my last post featuring 1455 I mentioned how I had removed the top feed and toolboxes. Next I made up a cab floor and secured a small captive nut to it so the chassis and body can be simply screwed together. A similar arrangement was carried out to secure the body at the front as shown below.

A small block of plastic can be seen under the smoke box area into which a small nut has been inserted. The tool box area blanks can be seen on the left.

Since then I have added patches to the holes left in the splashers where the original toolboxes were fitted and made new toolboxes from scrap plastic. These have been fitted further forward as per the prototype, a new boiler handrail has also been made from 0.33 brass wire. The Hornby handrail being both the incorrect shape and over scale I have also modified the roof as the way it overhangs the windows doesn't look right. So I filed it back flush with the cab front and then added a strip of fine microstrip to represent the roof edge. All the cab side, bunker and the handrails on the front of the water tanks have been replaced with wire and a full set of lamp irons have been made from brass strip and fitted in place.
The original buffers have been chopped off, the buffer beams filed flat and riveted etched overlays fitted together with a set of turned brass sprung buffers. Whilst working on the buffer beams brass vac.and steam pipes were also fitted.

The roof ,boiler, water fillers and vents have yet to be fixed in place . At this stage it all looks rather rough but when doing conversions like this you make a mess of things before the job comes right .

Other detail will include a brass safety valve casting, turned whistles and an etched whistle shield. Auto train control gear needs fitting under the buffer beam and screw couplings need making up. The bunker rear is still being detailed so no photos yet, it will however have a full set of hooks for carrying various tools and the usual bucket.

One advantage of having an etched replacement chassis is that the cab interior can be detailed. Of course the Mashima motor shaft needs shortening but that is easily done with a diamond coated triangular file. Don't try an ordinary file or saw for this job and be wary of using a slitting disc as the heat generated can melt the rear of the motor !

Another view of the almost an complete 1455 on running trials. The final jobs prior to painting will be to fit the sandboxes and No. Plates.

The Bradford Barton Look...............

2011-07-19T17:20:00.000+01:00

How many of you remember those lovely albums by Bradford Barton which were once common place in book shops and on exhibition stands ?
All the photos were in black and white and I can't help thinking that perhaps it is the best medium for model photography. So now and again I like to try and recreate the look of steam in the fifties and a selection of photos follow.

But first I want to take you back to the days when Penhydd first saw light of day.

How things have changed !

These days a large tree stands on the spot from which this shot was taken. A row of cottages has sprung up on the right behind the autocoach and many changes have been made to the scene in general.

The 14XX heading the train has since been sold and the story of it's replacement can be seen here on other pages of the Chronicles. In fact an update on 1455 is currently being prepared and should appear soon. The autocoach has also been mentioned previously and is complete apart from glazing. However with the possibility of the new laser-glaze from "Shawplan" becoming available for this model I decided to put the project on hold, just hope I don't have to wait too long ?

Anyway moving from the past to the present day here are the photos that I mentioned.....................

4560 has been busy shunting the yard, overgrown track was very common in the era modelled and it wasn't unknown for the odd derailment to happen. It shouldn't take too much work to get the rear pony truck back on the rail ! Thankfully I can say with hand on heart that derailments are very few and far between and are usually the result of operator error or not checking for debris on the track prior to a running session.
It's hard to believe just how the quality of RTR has improved over the last few years and though I have in the past built two examples of 45XX tanks from etched kits I think this model from Bachmann takes some beating.

The morning pick up goods is seen arriving in this shot behind 4678 which was later spotted shunting the yard.

The Pannier is another Bachmann model and must be one of the easiest EM /P4 conversions to do. Which makes it an ideal subject for anyone wishing to enter the world of finescale.

Having shunted the yard 4678 heads back to civilisation with a one coach passenger train and milk tank in tow. The inspiration for the make up of this train was taken from a photo of a similar train headed by a 74XX pannier on the Newcastle Emlyn branch.

The old Airfix Deans Goods is a rather botched conversion and not very reliable but she will soon be running on a new Comet chassis as will the tender. The question is whether to build the chassis fully sprung or with a simple beam compensation system ?
I do feel that some form of compensation or springing is desirable for small 6 coupled locomotives especially when used on a small branch line such as Penhydd.
I have a feeling a simple beam system will win as 3218 shewn below has that system together with a compensated tender chassis and has turned out to be a smooth reliable performer. As they say,"If it ain't broke don't fix it " !

Here she is, my very first EM loco 3218 still going strong after years of reliable service.

1420 and a change of plan......it's going to be 1455 !!

2011-06-25T17:15:00.002+01:00

With the chassis for 1420 built and running to my satisfaction it was time to think of the body.
Now I have already mentioned that an old cheap 14XX Airfix donor would form the basis for the model. I also mentioned the following..................................................,

" On the real Presteign branch where Penhydd is fictionally located the last trains to run before closure were usually in the hands of a Collet 0-4-2T.
Photographs appear in many albums showing 1420 on the branch goods and so I felt it was only right to model this particular engine. "

However I wanted to model something a little different and really wanted a version of the class without top feed. It also concerned me that 1420 is a rather common engine on model railways. So there I was thumbing through my collection of Bradford Barton Albums when I came across three photo's of 1455 in BR days without top feed at Titley Junction, New Radnor and Kington !
She was a Hereford engine and also worked the last rail tour over the branch and so was an ideal candidate for Penhydd.
Now I already had a list of improvements I wanted to make to the Airfix donor and so ended up adding a few others to the list, namely the removal of the top feed and pipes. The tool boxes mounted against the leading driving wheel splashers would also need to be removed and place further forward.
Fortunately the Airfix body breaks down into several components as should the Dapol and Hornby versions which are more or less the same moulding.

The boiler and smokebox simply unclips from the main body shell.

In the photo above you can see that the old undersized smokebox door has been removed and it's cast whitemetal replacement is ready to be fitted in place. The incorrect chimney has also been removed ready for a brass replacement to be fitted. One of the advantages of using an etched chassis is that the boiler can be modelled in the round with daylight underneath it and so a boiler plug was required. You can see the plug on the far left which has been preformed by wrapping 20 thou Plastikard around a piece of copper tube of slightly less diameter than the model boiler. The whole tube with the Plastikard taped to it was then immersed in boiling water and allowed to cool.


The boiler plug in place, it has been made up from three lamination's of Plastikard and then a new boiler band has been fitted. The top feed and it's pipes have been cut and carved off and the toolboxes have been carefully carved away ready for the resulting holes to be filled in and damage made good. The job is a whole lot neater than what the picture would have you believe !		.

The photo above shows what surgery has been carried out so far. The top feed was cut off as close as possible to the boiler using an old pair of Xuron snips. The remains were then gently scraped away with a selection of craft knife blades then finished with nail boards which being flexible are ideal for this kind of work. The boiler band was made from microstrip and is yet to be smoothed down.

In this photo you can see that the cab roof has now been unclipped ready for modification and also to allow a Plastikard floor to be fitted together with a mounting for the chassis. Instructions on how to make and where to fit the floor are included in the Comet chassis kit. As the Mashima motor clears the cab a cast backhead can be installed. The new chimney and smokebox door have been fitted which really change the look of the model.
Rather than provide a list of mods, updates will appear as they are carried out so watch this space.

A Chassis for 1420 Pt .4

2011-06-25T16:00:00.001+01:00

In the last installment of the chassis build I signed off by saying that once the chassis had been powered up and initially tested pickups would be fitted, followed by testing the chassis extensively on the track. Then after a further period of running in the brake gear would be added.
I was pleased to find that only a few minor tweaks to the pick ups and coupling rods were needed to get a really good running chassis. Sometimes you get lucky and at others all manner of problems are encountered.

Starting with the coupling rods you can see in the picture below the component parts and an assembled rod. After cleaning up the etches one of them was tinned and then the two parts aligned by inserting some pins in the holes. The rods are then held in alignment by the pins which are inserted into a block of Balsa wood to hold the job steady, the actual pins I use are plated and resist solder. Flux is then applied and a hot clean iron is swept along from the centre outwards. I then flux the rod edges and run a little solder along them which results in a strong rod.
The next job is to open out the bearing holes, first with a cutting broach so the bearings are a tight fit and then with a smoothing broach to give a working fit. All that now remains to be done is to clean the rods up prior to fitting and adjusting them so no binding occurs.
For lubrication I use a light clock oil on all moving parts, on the worm and gear I use a light grease.
After the initial running in has been carried out the old lubricants are removed with lighter fuel and fresh applied. Running in is carried out at half speed in each direction for an hour and then at slightly more speed for another half hour. A word of warning do not leave the chassis unattended whilst this is carried out as any resulting binding will result in a burnt out motor.

An assembled rod prior to cleaning up with fine files and wet and dry paper.

The chassis in full running order showing pickups and brake gear.

Here you can see the pickups which are simple pieces of gaped copperclad strip onto which 0.33 brass wire is soldered and adjusted to bear against the wheels. The driving wheel pickups are a ' Z ' shape which I find to be most effective and easily adjusted. The trailing wheels have edge wipers to reduce drag as much as possible. The completed pick up assembly bolts to the chassis cross members for ease of maintenance.
The brake shoes are fitted as close to the wheels as possible, etched wheel balance weights and cast metal sandboxes will complete the build.
So there we have a running chassis, it really is most satisfying to see something you have built run quietly and smoothly, all we need now is a nicely detailed body to go with it.

The joy of Silflor

2011-06-25T14:23:00.000+01:00

One thing I wanted to create on Penhydd were those areas of overgrown grass which are so common on embankments, in cuttings and along hedge rows. Usually the lower part of the stems are a rich green with the blades slowly changing to a straw colour at the tips where the sun has bleached them.

Having read Barry Normans superb book, "Landscape modelling " I decided to try out a few of his ideas and methods for creating long grasses, suffice to say that his book is now my bible for all things scenic.

Essential reading for scenic modelling.

For my first attempts at long grass I used hairy carpet underlay which was soaked overnight in bleach to remove the dark brown colouring then left to dry. Once it had dried out it was torn into clumps and applied to the layout with PVA and then painted with washes of Sap Green water colour. The idea being that the paint runs down the fibres giving a dark green at the base and a straw colour at the top, the fibres were then trimmed and raised upwards using an old suede brush. The resulting grass didn't look too bad but I thought I could to better.

I then discovered hanging basket liner at the local garden centre, don't buy the circular stuff designed to fit directly in a basket but instead buy it off the roll. It usually comes in two natural colours which can be used as they are without the need for bleaching or colouring.
You can apply it to the layout in two ways, either laid hairy side up for dense areas of grass or face down to represent scrub land. If using the latter method then seal the area to be grassed with an earth coloured paint such as emulsion from match pots and when dry apply a thin layer of PVA. Apply the liner hairy face down and once dry rip the backing up, this should leave a mix of dense and bald areas of grass and scrub. Be warned there is a knack to this but trial and error will eventually teach you the best way to get the effect you want.

The next discovery was a material called Silflor, this looks like a carpet with individual strands of grass. Take a look at International Models website by clicking the link below. They have a superb selection of quality scenic materials, back scenes and other accessories and offer a superb mail order service. I must point out that my connection with this business is solely as an extremely satisfied customer.

http://www.internationalmodels.net/acatalog/Main_Catalogue_Index_Silflor_53.html

Silflor isn't exactly cheap but it is certainly a quality product and used correctly it will go a long way.
Small sample mats are available and this allows various textures and shades to be mixed and matched at lower cost, in the end like most things in life you get what you pay for.

Having bought your Silflor how do you use it ? Well the most important thing is not to lay the whole mat in one go. Instead tear it into various size clumps and tease it out, mix it with hanging basket liner, scatter and static grass. Talking of scatter and static grass take a look at those on International Models website if you have not already done so, as the colours are far more natural than other makes.
The key for a realistic appearance is to experiment and find the best way for you . Anyway whatever you decide here is a short tutorial on how I use the materials listed.

I do hope you find the following sequence of interest and useful.

Here we have a selection of different colours and textures of Silflor which have been teased out. You can of course use larger pieces.

In this picture you can see that the base layer of hanging basket liner has been shaved away and a start has been made in adding Silflor.

Neat PVA is used to secure the material, one thing to bear in mind is that Silflor can be carefully removed and used again.

The scene is slowly built up as you wish, the bed of PVA on the left is for an ash path.

The path has now been added using Carrs Ash ballast.

The next stage is to add some static grass, I use a cheap hairspray to hold it in place and apply it with a simple Puffer bottle.

Bit by bit the fibres are applied until the height and depth of the grass is what you seek.

I hope you will have found this brief essay of interest and that you will be encouraged to have a go for yourself.

A Chassis fo 1420 Pt. 3

2011-06-04T18:07:00.002+01:00

With the basic chassis complete a couple of other jobs needed to be attended to prior to reaching for the spray can. As is my usual practice Gibson wheels were fitted and I started with the trailing set which were dropped into the horn guides, only the slightest amount of sideplay being needed.
Once happy the back to back was checked and wire retainers soldered in place to hold the complete axle in place. Finally the axle box rivet strip was sweated in place and the axlebox castings fitted.
Everything was given another scrub in hot water to remove all traces of flux and the chassis set aside to dry

Pickup assemblies will be bolted to the two slotted cross members.

Now I hate spraying a bare metal model as I think they look rather attractive in that state and so reluctantly after masking off the trailing wheels I reached for the spray can and gave the chassis a thin coat of matt black primer.
With the chassis set aside to dry I turned my attention to preparing the wheels.......

Now a lot has been written about Gibson wheels, people have complained about the steel tyres rusting and coming adrift but I can honestly say that after using these wheels for over twenty years I have never experienced any problems. So taking a brand new set of driving wheels I started to prepare them.
I always rub down the rear of the wheels on some wet and dry paper to remove any moulding pips, if these are left in place then they can cause an annoying clicking as the pickups hit them. Next a slight countersink was added to crankpin holes and the pins themselves carefully screwed and locked in place with screwlock.

As you will be aware Gibson wheels are a push fit on the axles and so to get them to go on square I file a slight taper on the axle ends. The drive axle also has a flat filed across it to allow the gear wheel screw to be tightened so as to give a good grip and also to prevent it going out of true.

Many years ago when I was building chassis on a regular basis I invested in a GW Models wheel press. This clever piece of kit will not only press the wheels on square but also accurately quarters them in a one shot operation.

Each half of the press has a spring loaded stub axle which is reversible for 1/8th or 2 mm axles. A 3 mm stub axle is also available as a spare part for when re wheeling RTR models. The two slots above the stubs are at 90 degrees to each other and the crankpins fit into them thus holding the wheel in the correct position for accurate quartering.

Here we have two wheels mounted and ready to be pressed onto an axle.

With both wheels mounted square in the press an axle with any necessary spacing washers is mounted, then by using gentle hand pressure the wheels are pressed onto the axle checking with a back to back gauge as you go. The above method is fine for keyhole style chassis but for other applications the axle is fitted into the chassis first, spacing washers added and then the wheels pressed home. This is why the brake gear has not yet been fitted as it could foul the press or be damaged.

So with the wheels prepared the next job is to calculate the amount of sideplay required and select the necessary spacing washers. The drive axle needs just the bare minimum of play and the leading axle not much more. The exact amount will be determined by how sharp the curves on your layout are.
I must admit I cheat when calculating the thickness of the spacing washers and rather than measure the amount required I just use an old wheel set and add / remove washers until I get things set up.

A view of the flat filed on the drive axle, once the gear is centralized the grub screw will be tightened and held with a dab of nail varnish.

The part complete chassis has been sprayed matt black and lightly weathered before fitting the wheels.

The next stage will be to build up the coupling rods and fit them in place. A little clock oil will be applied to all moving surfaces, wander leads connected to the motor and check for any binding carried out.
After any adjustments pickups will be fitted and the chassis road tested and run in. Only when I am happy that all is well will I add the brake gear and final detail such as sandboxes and balance weights.

Planning and a minor distraction...............

2011-06-01T17:02:00.002+01:00

Work is now well on the way as regards the Creamery extension and buildings though at one time I thought the whole layout might have been abandoned for projects new.
You see it all went pear shaped when this '0' gauge model of my favourite 74XX Pannier tank became available from Lionheart Models.
See...............http://www.lionhearttrains.com/

I have always liked the idea of modelling in the senior scale and at some stage I expect to do so. Somehow I managed to resist the call of the 74XX..........well at least for now and so the Penhydd saga continues by the skin of it's teeth.

With the main Creamery building now nearing completion the actual site on the layout needed to be decided upon once and for all.
The original idea was to build a removable cassette with it all in situ but the idea was deemed unworkable and so I decided to have a siding leaving the line just beyond the road bridge. However when I looked closely at this arrangement I found it resulted in a rather cramped scene.
Looking at things again I hit upon the idea of extending the far goods siding so that it passed under another bridge span. A rough mock up was made but that also appeared to be cramped . At this stage I was on the verge of giving up until I had one last try and decided to extend the coal road siding under a new bridge instead.

The original idea was to have a siding leaving the main line just the other side of the bridge. Then I thought of removing the buffer stops next to the signal and rebuilding the bridge so the siding could be extended towards the creamery.

The revised idea is to move the tree in the foreground and the coal yard across to the other siding. Another small bridge would be built where the tree once stood and the siding extended to the creamery.

Now this really did free things up and I think it works a treat but please take a look at this mock up of the whole site and the proposed reworked bridges. Bear in mind that the small end backscene section will be removed and the main backscene extended around the cassette deck. If you can find a flaw or can suggest a better way of doing things then don't be shy and please offer your opinion


Here we have the extended siding running into the creamery, the end backscene will no longer be in place thus opening the whole scene up. The baseboard width will need increasing but that is no problem.


Since the last update the roof and vents have been added together with canopy supports. Still a lot of work to do yet but it's all coming together. The white shell on the far left is another building which will be finished in corrugated iron sheet.

Here is an overhead view of the whole area, Slater's stone sheet has just been put roughly in place to show the site boundary wall. The backscene will have most of the foreground removed showing just the top bit of the horizon and the rest an expanse of sky, it will of course wrap round the whole board. My good friend Simon Dunkley has suggested a two road sector plate could be used in place of cassettes and that is something to ponder because there is adequate space for one.

So there we have it............well at least for now !!!

Milk Tanks for Penhydd

2011-05-09T16:40:00.001+01:00

Well apart from the addition of couplings the Hornby milk tank is complete so here are a few photo's as promised.

The Hornby tank is on the right with a Dapol version behind it.

In this photo we have another Dapol model but with different ladder and catwalk. The tank on the right is an old Lima model. The Hornby model is a retooled version of the old Lima and has a much better underframe with standard 26 mm pinpoints axles rather than the 24.5 mm that Lima used to fit to their rolling stock.

All four tanks are shown here, from right to left they are Hornby, Dapol, Lima, and another by Dapol. Two more Hornby tanks await conversion and I will probably model them with wide centre ladders and catwalk , we shall see.

Coaches for Penhydd........The Autocoach

2011-05-06T10:40:00.001+01:00

Way back in the seventies when Airfix introduced their autocoach I assumed it would be an accurate model of the prototype. Alas this was not so and although it is accurate in all major dimensions it is a mix of two different diagrams, namely an A30 and A28. The model is now produced by Hornby and to the best of my knowledge remains exactly the same.
A very good article appeared in MRJ No.9, in which both diagrams are discussed and modelled using the Airfix coach as a starting point and it is well worth reading if you want an accurate model.

I bought my own Chocolate and Cream version together with a 14XX tank as soon as they became available in the 70's. A short while after, Dart Castings produced a detailing kit which includes etched and cast parts for both body and underframe. I choose to model an A30 as it was the easiest option and set about carving away the moulded handrails, lamp iron brackets and other detail.
Perhaps a note about carving detail away will not come amiss. I prefer to use a curved blade in my scalpel and just gently remove a little material at a time. Let the blade do the work and don't force it, other detail can be protected by covering it in masking tape. A three sided scraper comes in useful for the final cleaning up followed by wet and dry paper.
I tend to use a lot of nail boards in my modelling and when they are worn I glue wet and dry paper onto them and use them again to give a finer finish.
The underframe was also detailed as per the kit instructions EM wheels dropped in place and for the next couple of years the coach gave good service on several layouts.

However a change in the era modelled meant a repaint was necessary in faded crimson and so the body was immersed in Modelstrip until I was left with a pale cream body shell.
Following a tip off that Ford Rosso Red aerosol spray paints were a close match for BR Crimson I tracked down a can and experimented.
The initial coat came up a little too maroon for my liking so once it was dry I cut back the paint with wet and dry paper followed by a little T-Cut. This certainly gave a faded look but is perhaps a little too pink now ? However testing a small area with Johnsons Klear gave the effect I was after and so when the final preparation has been completed the shell will be given a light spray of Klear then the flush glazing added.

End detail includes new grab handles, steps and lamp irons. A start has been made on the weathering in an attempt to give a smoke stained look.

At the moment it all looks rather rough but it is only to be expected when doing this sort of rework. The following photos show a rather sad coach and the extra detail so far fitted, when the paintwork has been weathered the drivers controls will be fitted and the model flush glazed.

The roof, body and underframe are not yet joined together hence the gaps between them. The new etched passenger steps and underframe detail make a huge difference to the basic Airfix model. The destination board and brackets are from Plastikard. Replacement drivers door grab handles have also been fitted and once the coach is assembled the passenger door handrails will be added.

Driving end detail such as grab handles, steps and full auto gear are modelled. A drivers window wiper will be added once the glazing is complete.

This is a really cruel enlargement of the driving end, those grab handles will be straightened and blackened, as will the steps and lamp irons. The auto gear can just be seen behind the screw coupling, the gap between the body and underframe will disappear when they are joined together as will the roof joint which will be blended into the coach end.

As I mentioned earlier to make improvements to your models means making a mess but don't worry because it will all come together in the end.

To be continued.........................

Hornby 6 - Wheel Milk Tank.........an update

2011-05-05T21:20:00.002+01:00

Looking back through my blog I was alarmed to see that I have not updated progress on this model since February, so why the delay ?
Well this was only going to be a quick job but the more I looked at the model the more I found wrong with it. Having a Mainly Trains wagon detailing etch in stock I decided to do a little more work and so with a new blade in the scalpel not only did I remove the brake shoes but also the brake levers, 'V' hangers and cross shaft. This is not difficult to do and by just carefully shaving a little material away at a time all was removed.

You can see the remains of the moulded brake lever and ratchet on the right hand spring. A gentle rubdown with fine wet and dry paper will remove all traces and the new etched replacements will hide any blemishes. You can also see the first replacement 'V' hanger.

The Mainly Trains detail etch comes in rather useful when detailing RTR models.

I was not going to replace the 'V' hangers in the original plan but had a change of heart. Of course this meant that the cross shaft and vac. cylinder actuator arm would also need to be replaced. Looking at the original on the left hand side I think the mod was worthwhile.

With all the unwanted detail removed it was time to start the rebuild. First of all I tackled the brakes, a quick look in the scrap box resulted in me finding some old Coopercraft brake hangers and so these were cut and filed to shape before being cemented in place so the shoes lined up with the wheels. Some versions of the tanks did not have brakes on the centre axle and Hornby chose not modelled them. I decided to leave them off as well to add a little variety.
New 'V' hangers were cut from the detail fret and secured in place, followed by cross shafts, ratchets and brake levers.
This just leaves lamp irons, vacuum and steam pipes to complete the detailing, then the couplings will be fitted before paint and weathering takes place.

Here we are with the new parts in place, the solebar around the ratchet area has since been cleaned up and the brake shoes aligned.. The ratchet itself has a slight kink which is not noticeable by eye but thanks to the camera it sticks out like a sore thumb and will be attended to. I think those plastic stays had best be replaced with wire ones as well.

I hope to have the model completed, painted and weathered by the weekend and photos will appear here.
All future milk tanks will be based around the Hornby model, why you may ask ...........well quite simply it offers the best detail and ease of conversion at a very good price. The old Lima model needs too much work on the underframe, in fact if I was modifying one again then I would fit new etched 'W' irons and axle box castings. As for the Dapol model, it is very nice but in this day and age and for the price asked I would expect a coupling hook and some vacuum cylinders to be modelled, it does however have brakes which line up with the wheels.

A Chassis for 1420 Pt.. 2

2011-04-21T12:02:00.001+01:00

Now an awful lot of modellers think chassis construction is a black art and way beyond them. At one time I felt exactly the same myself but it is not as difficult as you would think. I started off by building a simple tender chassis which I found to be an ideal introduction to the world of etched kit's. This is a cheap practical way to experiment with the basic skills required such as folding parts and soldering them together.

Before starting to build the 14XX chassis I gathered a few bits and pieces together as shown below.

Iain Rices book shown here is well worth a read, in fact I would say it is the best book on the subject, however you can always go to Comets website and download their guide to chassis construction.
For soldering I use a 25w Antex iron with low melt 145 degree solder and 12% Phosphoric Acid flux.
Other tools include a file, reamer, broaches, and hair clips for holding parts together whilst soldering them. A fibreglass brush and three sided scraper also come in handy for cleaning up the soldered joints.
Comet frame spacers shown in the bottom left of the photo are also worth investing in as are a set of jig axles.

The main chassis fret includes fold up frame spacers for 00 gauge, as I model in EM the correct width frame spacers had to be bought separately, those pictured are also by Comet.
The last item is a Mashima 1020 motor which has been fitted to a Comet GB4 gearbox with 38:1 gears.

Starting with the chassis frames each was removed from the fret by cutting through the tabs securing them with a Stanley knife. I made the cuts as close as possible and then filed away the remains of the tab. Using a reamer the axle holes were gently opened out until the brass axle bearings would just fit in place. Next the holes for the brake hanger wires were opened out with a broach until the wire for the hangers would just fit.
Turning my attention to the frame spacers three were cut and folded then the securing tabs were filed away. The number, type and position of the spacers is determined by your choice of motor and how you intend fitting the chassis to the body. The instruction sheet that came with the chassis kit will explain and show the options you have.
Now is a good time to clean all the parts with a fibre glass brush, also clean your solder and the bit.

Once the arrangement of the spacers had been decided they were soldered to one of the frames.

Holding the first spacer in place the joint was fluxed and and a small bit of solder picked up on the tip of the iron. Using my asbestos fingers ( you get used to the heat over time ) the iron was wiped down the joint. Another two spacers were added and then all the joints cleaned up with the fibre glass brush.

If you look at the top frame you can see a small tab with a hole in it at the base of the trailing axle horn guide. These are bent through 90 degrees as on the bottom frame and a small piece of wire will be soldered through them to act as a trailing axle retainers.

The next stage is to join the frames together using the frame assembly jigs.

All the wheel bearings are fitted in place but not soldered. The turned spacers are fitted over the bearings inside the chassis then the threaded rod is passed through both frames and spacers. Everything is now clamped together by screwing the nuts tight and checked for being both square and level. Once happy the second frame was soldered in place, remove the jigs and bearings and once again clean all the joints up.

Looking at the chassis frames and floating chassis you can see a hole through which a brake hanger wire passes, this also allows the floating chassis to pivot up and down.

In this photo you can see the basic frames assembled, as previously mentioned I decided to use a floating chassis and you can see it above with the leading driving wheel bearings fitted. The other end of it clips over the gearbox bearings. You can also see the rear chassis extension which has been prepared and folded all ready for final assembly.

The last photo shows the chassis more or less complete, wires have now been inserted for the brake hangers. The one between the axles also doubles up as a pivot for the floating chassis. I have popped a pair of jig axles in place to check the amount of vertical movement, you don't need much.
The jig axles will also allow me to check the accuracy of the coupling rods which is usually spot on with Comet products.
At this point I turn my attention to painting the chassis, but first of all I gave it a good scrub in hot water with a little Jiff cleaner added. This if done properly will remove all traces of flux which is most important.
I expect you are wondering how long it took to reach this stage, well including frequent stops to take the photo's I spent just under three hours.

The next instalment will cover painting the frames,wheeling up, brake gear and pickups.................

A Chassis for 1420

2011-04-14T17:48:00.003+01:00

On the real Presteign branch where Penhydd is fictionally located the last trains to run before closure were usually in the hands of a Collet 0-4-2T.
Photographs appear in many albums showing 1420 on the branch goods and so I felt it was only right to model this particular engine.
Over the years I have owned several models of this prototype, the first was a detailed Airfix body fitted onto a Perserverance etched chassis. It was later rebuilt using a Comet chassis which resulted in a lovely smooth running model. So smooth in fact that I am having trouble getting it back from one of my good friends who has it on loan !

Looking for a cheap 14XX body on Ebay I came across a none running Airfix example, part of the deal included a new Dapol chassis and so I set about converting the chassis to EM. Now the conversion is rather quick and simple and in no time I had it up and running. At this point I should have left well alone but decided I would drill out the chassis between the driving wheels so daylight could be seen.

Gibson wheels just drop into the Dapol chassis, the coupling rods were later filed down. Brake blocks are from a spare brass chassis etch found in the scrap box. and new pickups were made from 0.33 mm brass wire. This is a quick and easy entry into EM or P4 modelling, the old Airfix chassis can also be converted the same way.

The work went well but by removing part of the weight the whole balance of the model was upset. I added weight inside the boiler but the running though acceptable isn't to the standard I required.
So a visit to Expo EM saw me buying another Comet chassis, gearbox and Mashima motor. Wheels were bought from Alan Gibson and the whole lot put aside whilst I carried on with other projects.....as you do !

Since then a new chassis has become available from High Level kits, very nice it is too but I decided the Comet product would suit me fine as they are a joy to build without being over complicated.
It is my view that at times we take detail a little too far, of course this is fine for a showcase or museum piece but for a working model much of it is unnecessary and goes unnoticed. Of course some modellers get a huge amount of satisfaction from including as much detail as possible. This I know only too well because I used to be one of them but over the years my attitude has changed.

Though the running properties of RTR chassis these days is very good it is my opinion that a well constructed chassis whether built from scratch or a kit will always run much better. I also happen to believe that some form of compensation or springing is desirable especially for small tank engines.
Personally I favour a simple beam compensation, it really is much easier to build a chassis in this manner than in rigid form.
However for this particular chassis I choose to use Comets floating sub chassis which comes as part of the main chassis fret shown below. I have found this system to work well in the past and it is so easy to construct.

The chassis kit also includes whitemetal axle box casting, turned brass axle bearings and wire for the brake hangers.

Basically item 4 in the bottom left hand corner of the fret is folded up, axle bearings soldered in place for the leading driving wheels and then the other end is clipped over the gearbox / motor unit bearings.
The complete assembly is fitted between the frames and a brass pivot wire is inserted through the frames and sub chassis allowing it to move up and down. This means that the trailing wheels also take some of the load and with pickups fitted to all six wheels current collection is assured.
A series of photo's will follow showing the build as I go along which should make everything clear........I hope !

Geoff

Workbench Chaos and Creamery Pt.3

2011-04-14T16:22:00.002+01:00

Well to be honest I don't know where to begin with this update as my workbench is overflowing with projects. I have mentioned before that I usually have several things on the go at once but at the moment it is all getting out of hand !
Apart from the creamery I have the part complete Hornby milk tank and to make things worse I have started a Comet Chassis for another 14XX tank. Not content with that little lot I stripped down my old Airfix autocoach and prepared the body for a respray.

So first of all let's have a look at the creamery, now I did say that the next update would show the main shell more or less complete and here it is.

The chimney is still work in progress and has just been plonked in place for the photo. The rim obviously needs truing up and a lightning conductor will be added together with a ladder.

I spent a rather a long time deciding how to model the chimney and the solution came to me at candle light dinner one evening. There I was looking across the table and noticed that the candles looked ideal both in shape and size. To cut a long story short the following morning I ended up moulding Plastikard around one of the said candles and then built up the detail with further overlays. The chimney is actually based on the one at our now closed but preserved cottage hospital.
Rainwater goods, canopy wall brackets and supports are next to be added, the roof finished and then the water tower will be completed.

The Wills roof slate needs cleaning up at the joint as do several other joints. I forgot to add the office base which includes some stone steps prior to taking the photo.

Geoff

Penhydd Creamery. ( Part 2 )

2011-03-29T16:41:00.001+01:00

Due to a series of distractions both model and otherwise work on the creamery has been progressing in fits and starts. I then lost a little interest due to problems with the loading bay canopy. Getting it's shape right proved a little difficult and then I had to decide on it's finish. I had a picture in my mind as to the appearance the whole complex would have and saw a rather rundown weed infested area. So my thoughts turned to a corrugated iron affair with plenty of rusting panels and one or two holes where corrosion had really taken hold. Then my thoughts turned to a glazed version which I thought would be more in keeping with the Victorian look of the main building. A mock up was made but it didn't look right so I went back to my first idea using individually laid overlapping sheets of Slater's corrugated plastikard. This material is very easy to work and can be thinned down with ease, slowly but surely the roof began to take shape. I kept offering it up to the main building and decided it just didn't work as I thought it would.

This is typical of my approach to modelling and I throw no end of part completed projects into my scrap box. The only expenditure is my time and no doubt the discarded parts will re surface somewhere else on the layout so all is not lost. The lesson here is that if you are not happy with anything you make then don't be afraid to start all over again. Remember once something is built and on the layout you have to live with it !

Before I go any further it might be of interest to show how I go about laminating plastikard. The photos below show backing pieces attached to the office walls. Notice the holes drilled in them through which solvent is applied, they also allow fumes to escape so I am told ? As each lamination dries out the next can be cemented in place, use an unequal number of laminations to help prevent warping. This method was brought to my attention by Paul Bason in a series of articles he wrote in BRM and I always use it on smaller buildings. On larger buildings I make the last lamination out of thick card.

It all looks a little rough from the back but all will be out of view once the job is complete. The roof will fit between the end walls which is why the layer of brickwork is being added.

Next is a photo showing the front elevation of the building, the walls are just blu tacked in place for now, as are the canopy and various other additions to the complex. The window frames are by Wills, cut down and adapted to suit my needs, lintels, sills and other detail has been built up from odds and ends of plastikard. The track has been laid and infilled with Slater's stone setts, whilst the copping stones on the walls are waste spruce from the Wills building details pack, I throw nowt away !

The white sections on the office end wall have since been covered with decorative brickwork. The office door still awaits some stone steps.

The canopy still awaits wall supports and post which will rest on the low wall. The end brackets are made from Ratio signal bracket supports salvaged from the scrap box, the valence is also a Ratio part.
The next installment will show the basic shell completed and roof in place, final detail and painting will then follow.

Geoff

Penhydd in Pictures Pt.. 2

2011-03-03T18:20:00.003Z

Apologies to those of you awaiting an update on the creamery and Hornby milk tank. Suffice to say both projects are progressing well but from time to time I need a change in direction so decided a photo session was long overdue.

I am rather pleased with how the Pannier has turned out and she is seen here leaving the loop on the way to the Creamery to collect some milk tanks. The tanks will then be added to the passenger train which can just be seen in the platform behind 4560.

A few days later 4678 finds herself on passenger duties and is seen here coasting into Penhydd with a late afternoon local. This is one of my favourite photos to date and I feel it captures the rural branch scene of my youth. You can see some milk tanks in the siding and once 4678 has uncoupled from her train she will exchange those empty tanks for full ones waiting for collection in the creamery sidings, which in turn will be attached to the passenger train.

With 4678 booked for a boiler wash out at it's home shed at Worcester, 4560 takes over as the branch engine. Changes of motive power are built into the operating sequence which adds extra interest. I never actually know what engine will be used until the sequence card for the day and era in question is drawn.
In the next shot 4560 is left to simmer away whilst the crew join the signalman for a quick brew and natter.

Having put the world right and collected a rake of vans 4560 heads back down the branch.

Ex GWR Railacr departs from Penhydd, this is an old Lima Model which has been fitted with an Ultrascale drop in EM wheel conversion. New cast roof vents from the Comet range have replaced the rather crude Lima mouldings. Other modifications include full buffer beam detail, flushglazing, windscreen wipers, lamp irons and wire grab rails. The carden shaft between the axles has also been removed just as the prototype ones were in BR days.

Collet Goods 3218 waits patiently in the loop for 4560 to roll into the platform.

Finally an old photo taken before the signals were installed. The original was not straight but thanks to a program called Arcsoft Mediaimpression2 I was able to correct it. A few more rejected photos will be edited the same way and posted in due course.

Geoff.

Modelling Standards..........

2011-03-01T17:10:00.001Z

Despite my love of the Western I have always been a fan of the BR Standard classes and one of my favourites is the small Swindon built 3MT 2-6-2 T locomotives. For those of you not familiar with these engines the following link will give you a potted history.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BR_Standard_Class_3_2-6-2T

To the best of my knowledge the first commercial model of this prototype was produced by Tri-ang (Rovex) and I was lucky enough to buy one new in the early sixties at around £2.70 in today's money. Should you want to buy one today in mint boxed condition you will have to pay around £70 to £75 !

As you can see compared with today's models it was rather crude but well received in it's day. Mind you compared with the Hornby-Dublo 4MT 2-6-4T it was the poor relation ! It did however capture the look of the prototype and several modellers have in fact produced some rather nice models from this basic example.

The only other model of this class in 4mm scale that I know of was by Kemilway which was one of the first etched loco kits to be produced. Steve Hall built one for his "Halifax Kings Cross " layout and a photo can be found of it in MRJ 98.

Enter Bachmann who in 2009 announced that they would be producing a model of this loco in both 00 and N gauge under the Branchline and Farish labels.
As you will know Penhydd is operated in different eras and as these tank engines were common on the Cambrian one could easily have turned up at Penhydd towards the end of steam.

Looking through my 1955 combined volume I found that two members of the class 82030 / 31 were sheded at Shrewsbury and so I decided either of these would suit me. When an EM wheel conversion kit became available from the EMGS stores I decided to take the plunge and order one of the models in BR lined green and here she is coasting into Penhydd with a couple of BR suburbans in tow.
These will soon be replaced with some Hawksworth coaches which I have on order, as they were very common on WR branch and secondary lines.

I have cheated a bit here for the sake of a few photos and just pulled the pony truck wheels out to gauge. A full conversion to EM will take place during the coming months along with the Ivatt 2MT.

Having run around the coaches 82030 poses on the bridge, now compare this lovely model with the old Tri-ang one. It just goes to show how lucky we are today with the superb models on offer from the likes of Bachmann and Hornby and what's more they are cheap at the price.

Extra detail is provided with the model which includes some rather nice screw couplings, cylinder drain cocks, vacumn and steam pipes. Front steps are also provided but will foul the pont truck wheels unless you have really generous curves, fortunately Penhydd has and so they have been fitted. Another nice touch is the provision of a shovel and fire iron which fit on the RH side tank top brackets. For those who model the Southern a set of route disc are provided.

Having set back into the platform road 82030 awaits departure back to civilization. Looks like it has been a rather hazy day today at Penhydd.


One of the first jobs I did was to remove the tension lock coupling and it's housing. Though I mentioned earlier that 82030 was at Shrewsbury shed during in 1955, she will be renumbered as 82031 just to be different.

Not much extra detail needs adding to this model, perhaps a turned smokebox dart would look a bit better ?
A little light weathering will be done once the wheels ( Gibson ) have been replaced, add some lamps and that should be that.
Oh ! before I forget it goes without saying that performance straight out of the box on an '00' test track was superb even with an old Duette controller.
I am extremly pleased with my example of this model and if someone had told me way back in the sixties that RTR models would be to this standard I would have laughed at them.

Geoff

Hornby 6 Wheel Milk Tank

2011-02-17T15:16:00.001Z

Taking a break from building the Creamery I turned my attention to modifying this Hornby milk tank which arrived on my doorstep this morning.
I have slowly been building up a collection of 6 wheel milk tanks and having converted both the Dapol and old Lima models I decided to see how easy it would be to convert and detail one of the new Hornby models.
The model is based on the old Lima offering but has a new improved chassis. Gone are the old short 24.5 mm Lima axles and in their place standard length 26 mm pin points are used. To my delight EM replacement 3 hole wheelsets simply dropped into place without the need for any modification whatsoever. The entrance to the creamery will be through an A5 point and the model passed smoothly through with no problem.
Taking a good look at the chassis I found the rivet and other detail to be crisply moulded. A coupling hook, vacuum cylinders and brake cross shafts are all modelled. The only fault I could see was that the brake shoes and hangers are not in line with the wheels, but this will be fairly easy to rectify.
An added bonus for me or anyone else who uses S & W couplings is the ease at which these can be fitted once the tension locks and their housings have been removed.
Turning my attention to the tank the the joints will benefit from a little filling and rubbing down, and a different catwalk and ladder arrangement could also be modelled.
No doubt the purist amongst us could find more faults but if you want a really accurate model there is always the David Geen kit, but for me this model captures the look of the prototype and not being a rivet counter will suffice.
In short I am more than happy with my purchase and once complete it will add further variety to the rake of tanks which I am putting together. So if you are looking for a cheap attractive 6 wheel tank which is easy to convert to the wider gauges this model is well worth looking at.


Here is the model and apart from the replacement EM wheels which only took minutes to fit it is in out of the box condition. As you can see the brakes are in line with the W irons rather than the wheels ! It will be a simple job to cut the brakes off and attach them to new hangers salvaged from the spares box.

The improvements and modifications will be posted as they take place then the whole model will be painted and weathered in similar fashion to my other tanks.

Geoff.

Penhydd Creamery. (A dry run Pt.1)

2011-02-13T14:18:00.001Z

Just a brief update to show work in progress on the creamery,
With the design of the building decided on it was time to cut some Plastikard and start the proper build.
The photo below shows the first three walls Blu-tacked together and gives an idea as to the style of the building.
Each wall is being built up from three lamination's of plastikard which will then be attached to a stiff card shell to prevent warping.

As you can see they still need a little work yet, some well worn steps will be fitted against the door and a louvre will fit inside the circular hole on the gable end.

A morning at Penhydd

2011-01-19T16:16:00.001Z

A few new photo's taken early one morning as 4678 drifts into Penhydd with the branch goods.

4560 waits in the background with an all stations stopper to Worcester, whilst 4678 shunts the yard.

Penhydd Creamery.

2011-01-19T15:43:00.063Z

Well I have been going on about the Creamery for ages but with nothing to show. No end of schemes have been drawn up and written off for one reason or the other. The main problem is the usual one of space or should I say lack of it.
However I think I now have a solution after coming across a photo of Wallingford CWS Creamery. For those of you who don't have a copy of " GWR Branch Line Termini " then thanks to my friend and fellow modeller Steve Cooke this link should take you to the same photo which appears in the book. http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/1016196 .
Naturally I will not have the room for the whole complex but will be adapting certain buildings to suit my needs. The row of outbuildings on the right hand side will be modelled, or should I say my version of them ! The foreground will have the same overgrown unkempt look which will use up the last of my Silflor winter pasture material. So with this picture in my mind and a little modellers licence it was a case of getting on with things.

Now I always build a quick mock up out of waste card, old cereal packets are ideal. The first mock up came out like this but I am not entirely happy with the result. The windows for example are a little gothic and give the building the appearance of a church. Over the next few days the size of the various buildings will be adjusted and different window frames tried out.
You will see a water tower in the photo and I think a detailed Dapol (ex Airfix kit ) will do nicely.

Please excuse the background, now as you can see the chimney is too high and the windows make the building look like a church. At this stage it doesn't matter as the mock up will allow me to play around with various ideas.
A day later and the whole thing takes on a different look, it is not right yet though as the loading bay front elevation and canopy are too high. I think the windows look a little better as does the canopy. You can see that the lean to building on the right hand side has been demolished. A new wall has been put in place and the water tower will be placed behind it. The extension on the left hand side has also been reworked.

The small wall needs to be raised a little bit, the canopy supports will be in round brass tube and a fancy valance attached to the canopy. I also visualize some iron support brackets attached to the wall to give extra support. At the end of the wall a gate will be fitted to protect the entrance to the loading bay.

Now you might think all this is a waste of time and effort but at the end of the day it can save you so much frustration. The trick is to just tack the trial parts together with Blu-Tak or double sided tape. Once you are happy you can then dismantle the mock up and use the parts as templates for the proper build. This means no waste of material when you come to build the model and you also know how it will look and if it will fit the space available.
With the basic design decided a little extra detail can be added such as these steps at the end of the loading bay platform.

The next stage is to leave the model alone for a day or two either on the workbench or the layout. This will allow your eye to get used to it. You might decide you don't like it after all or want to adjust the proportions of the building, in which case all you have spent is a few hours of your time.

The proper building will be modelled in a card salvaged from old ring file binders. This will be overlaid with Slater's brick plastikard sheet which I feel best represents brickwork in 4mm scale. Look at a real wall and you will see hardly any relief, stand back and it will appear almost flush apart from areas caught by the sun. The Slater's product once rubbed down lightly will do just the job I ask of it and give the appearance I wish to portray. At the moment I expect to use Wills quoins on the corner joints, door and window apertures. The same make of slate roof material will also be used, window frames from the same range but modified to suit my needs will complete the picture. As yet the finish and design for the canopy roof is undecided, I rather like the idea of rusty corrugated iron, Wills again no doubt.

Of course you could log in next week and see a whole different building, we shall see.

Well the building remains the same but a new canopy has been made which I think is an improvement.

As you can see the shape of the canopy roof is different, I will probably glaze the front portion. The end support brackets will be extended to join up with the front valance. The brackets are left overs from a Ratio signal kit, I always knew they would come in handy one day.
I have also raised the height of the small wall on which sit temporary canopy supports made from cotton bud stalks.

The next job will be to make the water tower which will sit behind the wall side on. The whole scene will then be left for a while and no doubt one or two changes will be made but I now have a feel for this building and expect to build the proper article soon.

Here we have the Dapol (ex Airfix ) water tower with the base assembled. I just tacked the tank together to see how it worked with the creamery building.

If you look back you through this post you will see a window was planned for the gable end.
However with the tank being so close I now plan on a circular louvered vent, the same will also be added to the opposite end of the building.

As usual I will leave the building for a while and come back to it later trying out a few changes. What I have in mind is to slightly reduce the length of the left hand building and replace the window on the left with a wooden door. The canopy will be glazed with the support brackets modelled in full.
The tank ends will be modified so they have a curved roof profile and the tank top will be of corrugated iron.

Now a word about materials, Slater's English bond brick sheets will be used for the building with the same make of corrugated sheet for the tank roof.

This style of brickwork is the most common for buildings of the era in which I model. Before use the plastic sheet is rubbed down lightly to remove the rounded appearance of the bricks.
For those of you interested you can find details of the most common types of brickwork here.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brickwork
You can also see below a selection of the other components which will be used to model the building.
The rough card mock up will be broken down and used as templates to cut the components for the model. The walls will be in the form of a card and plastic lamination with extra bracing to prevent warping.

Another update will hopefully follow towards the end of next week.

Cheers Geoff.

A trip down memory lane.

2011-01-10T16:15:00.004Z

Whilst having a little rummage through my late parents effects I came across this invoice. I found it most interesting and so decided to share it with you.

It relates to our family move from Somerset to Cheshire. Under the stamp on the left hand side it reads from Frome to Culcheth which at that time was on the GCR branch between Glazebrook CLC and Wigan Central, later the branch became part of the LMSR.

Before coming a victim of the Beeching axe the line had a regular service between Wigan Central and Manchester Central. Works trains also ran between Wigan and the Lancashire Steels plant at Irlam. These days the trackbed forms part of the Culcheth Linear Park and nature trail but relics from the railway can still be seen if you know where to look.
Sadly I could not find any more receipts, but my elder sister tells me that this very trunk was the one I had in my bedroom in which I stored my railway magazines.
How i wish the family had held onto it but alas it went to the tip years ago !

Penhydd in the New Year

2011-01-06T16:33:00.001Z

Having been ill over the festive season with the dreaded flu means I have had plenty of time to ponder what progress will be made on the layout during 2011.
Towards the end of December I received a very generous offer for Penhydd and to be honest I am tempted to sell. In fact a replacement layout has already been planned but who knows what will happen ? However I want to complete the dairy before I consider parting with the layout and it is this which will modelled next. The design has now been worked out and material has been cut for the main foundations and shell of the building. The cassette deck will have to be modified to accommodate this new extension but nothing major mind you.

Other projects currently on the work bench include a 20T Toad brake van and several mineral and 5 plank wagons. A pair of Hawksworth coaches await EM wheels and once in service they will replace the BR suburbans. An old Airfix Autocoach has been detailed using the Dart Castings kit and once the weather is warmer it will be sprayed in a faded, unlined crimson. To go with the coach my old 14XX tank is currently being refurbished with much extra detail and a new Comet chassis.
I could go on and on as the list of improvements, additions and dreams are never ending. It is this which makes our hobby so interesting and absorbing.

A Pannier for Penhydd Pt 1 continued

2010-12-04T16:53:00.005Z

It is said that you can never have too many Panniers on a Western Region layout and I intend to have at least two on Penhydd. So a start has been made in researching suitable prototypes which could have been seen in the area in which Penhydd is located.
Ideally I would like a member of the 74XX or 16XX classes but for now a 57XX or two will suffice.
Currently I have two models of this class, one being a Bachmann with later cab and the other which has an old Mainline body with low roof. The latter will be mounted on to a Comet chassis which has already been built, more of which later.

For now I am concentrating on the Bachmann model, to which I fitted an Ultrascale EM drop in wheel conversion set. This turned out to be a thirty minute job and despite a successful test run no further work was carried out......until now.
So sitting down with various photographic albums I searched for a likely candidate in the Hereford and Worcester areas. In no time at all I came up with a choice of two engines 4678 and 4664 . Now according to my 1955 Shed allocation book, 4678 was based at Worcester and 4664 was at Hereford so either would fit the bill.

When it comes to numbering my WR steam engines I tend to make my own plates from the etches produced by Martin Finney. For a few pounds you get a selection of brass number plate blanks and numbers. Simply remove the plates and numbers of your choice from the etch, clean all the parts and make up your plate. The way to do this is to coat the blank plate with matt varnish and float the numbers into position. Adjustment is carried out with a cocktail stick, a final check being made just as the varnish begins to grip. Leave the plate for a couple of days for the varnish to harden and then paint the whole plate in your chosen background colour. Now leave the paint to fully harden and then using a fine wet and dry paper rub the plate until the brass plate surround and numbers are exposed.
Using this method allows you to quickly and cheaply make up any number you need.

Having checked what numbers I had remaining I decided to model 4678. With the plates made the model was examined to see what improvements could be made. Starting with the chassis some etched balance weights were fitted to the new wheels. An ATC shoe was also fitted then the complete chassis and wheels were painted and weathered.

On examining the body the most obvious improvements apart from fitting new number plates are....

1) Fitting the missing front, smoke box top and spare lamp irons.
2) Replacement of the moulded smoke box dart with a turned brass one.
3) Screw link couplings, vacuum and steam pipes to both front and rear buffer beams.
4) Sanding gear operating linkages.
5) Fitting a crew and coaling the tender.
6) Painting the back head detail.

The photos below shows the work carried out so far.


The original smoke box dart has been carefully cut away and and a turned brass replacement fitted. A start has been made on fitting some lamp irons, another two are yet to be fitted to the side of the front splasher. The next job will be to fit the sandbox operating linkages and continue weathering the chassis.

The sanding gear operating linkages caused a bit of a problem as though I had several photographs of Pannier tanks the linkages were always hidden from view by shadows. Luckily Tim Maddocks of "Engine Wood , Bleakhouse Road and Callow Lane " fame had recently detailed one of his own Panniers and had a selection of photos showing all the detail I needed, thanks Tim

I decided I would make the linkages from 0.33 mm brass wire, to do this I formed the curved sections first and then filed the wire flat. Once that had been done the bends around the front splasher were easily formed. Where the linkages connect with the sandbox the end of the wire was twisted through ninety degrees as on the prototype.

.


A view of the LH side of the model showing the operating linkage, extra lamp iron brackets for spare lamps and the new No plate.

The next job will be to fit the RH operating linkage, rear bunker lamp irons and buffer beam detail which I will cover in the next update.

Well with the Christmas and New Year holiday over the finishing touches have been added to 4678. First of all a view of the right hand sandbox operating linkage roughly tacked in place prior to the final fitting.

The next job was to remove the moulded lamp irons from the rear of the bunker and fit brass replacements. I also added screwlink couplings and the usual pipework to the buffer beams, another little job was to fit a fire iron and bucket onto the bunker hooks.
A light wash of dirty black paint was then applied and allowed to dry before a little dry brushing of rust and ash was applied.

It was only after I had taken this photo that I realized I had forgotten to add the top lamp iron ! Suffice to say that little job has since been taken care of.

Was it all worthwhile ? Well I think adding the missimg lamp irons and sanding gear lifts the model myself and makes it a little different from a straight out of the box sample. I also painted the backhead detail but once a crew was added it cannot be seen.

4678 runs into Penhydd on a passenger train.

Having uncoupled from the coaches and having taken water she runs around the train.

With 4678 completed and nicely run in it is time to think of the next job or should I say jobs. Part 2 of this story will feature the building of an early version of the 57XX with low roof but first a little break will be taken to model other projects as I like to vary my work.

A little Maybach

2010-12-03T15:57:00.002Z

Despite my love of steam I am also rather fond of the early pilot scheme diesels and especially the Western Hydraulics. Living in Cheshire I had become used to seeing the huge English Electric Type 4 (Class 40) and BR Sulzer Type 4 (Peaks) on the principle express trains. So you can imagine my surprise returning to Somerset as we did every year and arriving at Bristol Temple Meads to be greeted by the much smaller and attractive classes such as the Warships and Hymeks working on similar duties.
It was sad to see that steam was rapidly being swept away but also exciting to see these new diesel replacements and it didn't take me long to become a fan of them. At this time vast numbers of new hydraulics were being delivered and Bath Road depot was full of them.

When planning Penhydd I wanted an excuse to run a Hymek or Baby Warship and a lovely photograph taken at Newcastle Emlyn showing a Hymek on short train of milk tanks provided the inspiration to do so. From previous postings here you will have seen that I have started to build some milk tanks.
So the next job was to model a Hymek to pull them for when the layout is run in sixties mode.
In my teens I counted myself rather lucky to have a Tri-ang Hymek but as I grew older I found all manner of faults with it. Now for those of you who still have this old model you will find an account of improving it both mechanically and cosmetically in the Railway Modeller for November 1983 by the late Monty Wells. In more recent times another article has appeared and I refer you to the Railway Modeller for February 1998.
These days of course the excellent Heljan Hymek is available and many say it is the best diesel model to date so I purchased one and my old Hymek was pensioned off.

Now a few months ago I posted some photo's of my Heljan Hymek on running trials following conversion to EM gauge, The conversion was carried out using the correct type wheels from Alan Gibson and must be one of the easiest on record. An account of this conversion can be found in MRJ 149 by Tim Shackleton.
Reading through the article Tim mentions that Heljan have modelled this locomotive with a Stones Vapor boiler flue and that means it is only 100% correct for the following twelve members of the class, D7033 - D7044 between 1962 - 1966. After this date extra lower mounted door handles were retro fitted to all members of the class.

It's early days and the model is being tested following conversion to EM. Other than that it is straight out of the box and in need of extra detail.

My example of the model was in green livery without yellow warning panel and numbered D7017.
It came with the buffer beam and cowling painted black which only applied to the first few deliveries. A quick repaint using Precision dull buffer beam red and pale green soon corrected that and once dry the pipework as supplied with the model was fitted. I chose to fit scale screw link couplings from the Smiths range and also jumper leads which are available as rather nice clean castings from Craftsman Models.
I also modified the body side windows so as to be more of a flush fit, the only other jobs were to replace the number, fit shed plates and weather the model. Fox do a transfer sheet for the Hymek and 247 developments do etched shed plates.
When it came to painting I wanted a light weathering job and so light washes of dull dirty black mixed with a little sleeper grime were applied to the roof and body, in some areas this was cleaned away using a cotton bud.
A mix of brake dust, and rust was applied to the bogie frames and also to the lower body. The fuel tank was painted in dull black with little gloss dribbles for fuel spillage. The fuel gauge was touched in with dull white and once all the paint was tacky various shades of weathering powder were applied.
At this point I caught one of the air horns with a cotton bud and snapped it of. Luckily Craftsman Models do a lovely little casting which saved the day. Heljan spares are also available from Howes of Oxford but they were out of stock at the time.

Now weathered with extra detail added D7039 rolls into Penhydd with empty milk tanks.

It goes without saying that the performance of this model is superb and it is a joy to shunt the layout. It is used when I run the layout in the sixties era, mainly on the milk train or pick up goods.
However it has been seen on passenger trains as well !!

Having shunted a rake of milk tanks into the goods yard D7039 was pressed into service on a passenger train seen here leaving Penhydd with Fruit vans attached.

Penhydd in Black & White

2010-11-29T16:25:00.001Z

It was not that long ago that any photographs in the model press appeared in black and white. Some people argue that it is a better medium in which to work and feel it creates more atmosphere.

From time to time I like to take a few black and white photos myself to try and capture a fifties feel as follows.

4560 departs with a goods train

46521 is still waiting to enter the workshop for a set of Alan Gibson wheels, extra detail and weathering.

The following three shots follow the arrival of the pick up goods hauled by 3218

Taken in true Ben Ashworth style from the top of a tree 3218 is seen passing the goods yard.

Fast forward to 1962 and a new Hymek approaches Penhydd on a driver training duty.

Milk Tanks Pt 3

2010-11-28T15:30:00.003Z

Wanting a little variety and something different I thought of turning the Dapol milk tank into one of these. This particular design of tank seems rather common and I must thank Rob (Lancer) for allowing me to use one of his photographs which was taken at Minehead in 2008.

My model is not 100% correct as I have worked solely from the photograph but then again the Dapol donor is not perfect itself. I do think it captures the appearance of these tanks though and it looks at home when coupled to the other tanks.
The new platform and ladder arrangements were made from the original catwalk and filler cap which simply unclips from the model. The new hand rail is shaped from .45mm brass wire and then filed flat, a bit of patience and trial and error being needed to get things just so.
A new coupling hook, together with vacuum and steam pipes were added before the model was painted and weathered.

Lima 6 wheel milk tank conversion

2010-11-18T17:26:00.002Z

Looking through my stock box I came across an old Lima 6 wheel milk tanker. Now this must have been bought when I was still modelling in 00 which would have way back in the 70's. I was rather pleased with it in those days and to be honest I still think it is an attractive model.
Now I am not one for throwing things away so decided to see if the model could be converted to EM and brought up to the standard of current RTR wagons which we have come to expect.

The small print reads "Not to be loose shunted" The wheels have been removed and you can see how the brake hangers are mounted in line with the axle boxes

So what about the model in general, well to be honest I am no expert on these tank wagons but from looking at varios photographs it appears to capture the look of them. One thing that stands out are the brake hangers and blocks which are in line with the axle boxes rather than the wheels. The brake lever is also rather crude and heavy. Unlike the Dapol model vacuum cylinders and cross shafts are modelled but again they are rather heavy.

After a little thought I decided that I would remove the offending brake hangers, blocks and levers.
It is not really feasible to improve the vacuum cylinders etc,etc and I decided I could live them.
With a clear idea of what could be done I decided to press on, after all I had nothing to lose.
The first job was to re wheel the model to EM gauge, now Lima for reasons only known to themselves decided to use pinpoint axles of 24.5 mm length fitted with steam roller wheels. For those who work in 00 then Alan Gibson can supply wheels from his range fitted to a 24.5mm length axle, which can just be dropped in place. They do have to be ordered but the service is quick, however for EM and P4 modellers this is not an option.

Taking a good look at the chassis I decided to remove all the axle boxes, so with a new blade in my craft knife they were slowly sliced off. Don't try and remove them in one go, just remove a little bit at a time. The next job was to drill the 'w' irons for 2mm pinpoint axle bearings but how to mark the centres accurately ? Looking through my stock of wagon parts I came across some etched 'w'irons and thought to myself if I cut one in half and align the bottom part with that of the Lima one I would have a drilling jig. As luck would have it the etch was an exact fit over the Lima moulding, clamping it in place I drilled the bearing hole under size and then carefully opened it out with a broach until the brass bearing was a good fit. The other five holes were drilled out in the same manner and then the inside faces of the chassis frames were reduced in thickness until an EM wheel set could be dropped in place. Fitting all six wheels and bearings temporarily in place the modified chassis was placed on a piece of glass. All was found to be correct and so with chassis placed on the track the ride height was checked.....success all was well and I now had the chassis converted to EM.

Axle boxes and brake gear have now been removed and the 'w' irons drilled for pinpoint bearings.

With the bearings fitted EM 3 hole wheels have been dropped in place prior to the model being place on a piece of glass to check all was level. It was then placed on the track to make sure the ride height was correct.

Removing the wheels and bearings I carefully cut away the unwanted brake detail and cleaned up the resulting mess. When doing conversions such as this you will at time think you have made a right hash of things. Stick with it though because as you start to rebuild the model it will begin to look so much better.
Needing some replacement axle boxes and brake gear I came across a Coopercraft 10ft chassis kit and was pleased to find that the axle boxes were a very close match to the Lima ones I had removed. My luck was really in because the kit comprised of two pairs of solebars and and plenty of brake gear which could also be used.
All the parts needed were carefully removed from the kit, cleaned up and placed to one side. The next job was to fit the axle boxes, the bearing holes had to be opened up a little then they were secured with a touch of solvent. Tie rods were made from microstrip and rivets made from microstrip cubes added.
Brake levers and ratchets were cut from a fret of wagon detail parts made by Mainly Trains. Once cleaned up and folded into shape they were attached to the solebar with a touch of cyano.

At this stage the added detail looks a rather crude especially the tie rod. However once cleaned up and painted it will look completely different.

Whilst modifying the chassis I broke one of the buffers and so four MJT cast replacements of the correct type were fitted. Though the model has a coupling hook I decided to cut it off and fit a replacement together with a mounting plate.

A pair of S & W couplings had already been made up and so the underside of the chassis was prepared to receive them. Last of all four lamp irons were attached to the buffer beam, a little cleaning up was done and the model passed onto the paint shop.
I used Precision Paints and Carrs weathering powders to finish the model in a well weathered state. First of all Dull Dirty Black was applied to the solebar then using a cotton bud the paint was slightly removed over the lettering so that it could just be made out and yet remained dirty. The tank was also painted the same colour and just a little of the lettering was left showing. This Dirty Black paint once dry has a really flat sooty look to it which looks really good.

Below the solebars I used the same Dirty Black mixed with Brake Dust, the mix being adjusted as I went along. The same mix was also used on the tank frame and supports as well as the headstocks. Some was applied to the bottom of the tank and brushed upwards, next light rust was dry brushed over areas at random.
To replicate the milk stains Dull White was mixed with dirty thinners and allowed to run down the tank.

Now I always apply weathering powders whilst the paintwork is still a little tacky. Starting with Shades of Grey a little was applied using a flat brush to the tank sides, rubbing it into the paint with a circular motion. A little Rust powder was added to the lower areas of the tank but be careful as it is a very strong colour. A touch was also added below the solebar and around the coupling hooks. Last of all some Off White powder was added over the white stains. The powders have the effect of blending all the paint together leaving a really realistic finish. As with most modelling projects a little practice always pays off.

Here we have the two tanks which have been made so far, on the left is the Dapol model. You can see the difference between chassis and tanks.

It was rather satisfying to be able to convert the model and to find I had all the parts needed for the job. With two tanks complete another four should be enough for Penhydd Creamery, the next has already been fitted with EM wheels but I think I need a break to do something else now.
What will that be.................well I will keep you guessing ? In the meantime here are the tanks in service.........

3218 heads back up the branch with milk tanks in tow.

The End.

Can't tell the wood from the trees !

2010-11-08T17:37:00.002Z

Trees must be about the most difficult scenic item to model, you can of course buy handmade specimens but at a price. Over the years I have tried many different methods in an attempt to capture a natural open look to the branches and foliage.
My latest efforts use the C & L Finescale plastic tree trunk mouldings see, http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=58#scenicitems reference 4ZZ106A . I also use the foliage as listed on the same page and Sprigs which is rubberized horsehair.
Another source of real quality scenic items is http://www.internationalmodels.net/
They supply the Anita Decor range of materials which includes some excellent foliage, Bark mix and of course sea moss. You can also buy ready made trees, though I have not seen these myself I am told that they are superb. Study this site at leisure because there are some fantastic materials available.

Now what I am going to describe next is not my own idea but based on a method devised by Paul Marshall - Potter. Basically Paul used the above mentioned plastic tree mouldings and added extra branches using sea moss. As he was modelling a winter scene foliage was not added, this is where my method differs as I wanted to model trees as they appear in late summer which meant adding foliage.

So lets have a look at the materials starting with the plastic tree mouldings. These come in four sections and with a little imagination they can be juggled about to make different height and shaped trees. The instruction sheet shown here should give you an idea of what the components look like. It is suggested that horsehair is used as a basis for making clumps of foliage but more on that later.

As supplied the various sections are flat and the branches will need twisting and shaping as required. This is done by gently heating the plastic under hot water or with a hairdryer, too little heat and the branch will snap, too much and they melt. Don't worry you will soon get the hang of it and any damage can be rectified with a drop of solvent or a touch of modelling clay.
This is what you should end up with but make every tree different and if possible model them as a known species.

If you don't have a book on the subject then just take a walk and look at the trees around you. Take a few photographs or make a few sketches, also study the colouring in different light.

Other materials needed are sea moss, I am sure most of you know that this is a plant and can be home grown though I admit having little success myself. It is applied to the plastic trunk using cyano, either drill holes in the plastic or just secure it to the top of the branches. I use a mix of both methods but I would advise you to use a activator for your cyano which will speed up construction no end. Simply apply the cyano to one component and the activator to the other and bring together for an instant bond.
Your tree should now look something like this.....

The next job is to hide the joints between the plastic mouldings and also the sea moss where it is attached. This is done using modelling clay and a bark mix, you can buy the latter or make your own from plaster and PVA mixed 50/50. As well as hiding joints the clay and mix can be used to add texture, stumps and roots to the tree trunk.

We now have a basic tree ready to be painted and foliage applied but first lets have a look at some more materials.

In the background we have an aerosol of superglue (cyano) activator. The white container is full of Anita Decor special glue for applying foliage, what is special about it I can't tell you. It looks like thin PVA but smells like Copydex which is a latex based adhesive ! A quantity can be seen in the container, next to which are two jars of foliage with samples shown in front of them. The other foliage to the left is by Anita Decor and last of all are some teased out pieces of horsehair which I mentioned earlier. They are made into clumps of foliage matting as per the C & L instructions sheet and you can see some samples below.

The next stage is to paint the tree trunk and add foliage. I use artist acrylic paints such as Paynes Black, Titanium White, Burnt Sienna and Sap Green, these are mixed to create silver greys, and mouldy green shades. I start by mixing a very light silver grey, once this has dried a slightly darker mix is made up and applied down one edge of the tree trunk. The underside of the branches are painted a light mouldy green colour as is the base of the tree around the roots, you only need a slight hint of this.
Once everything is dry a few washes made up from the same mixes can be applied until you are happy. Remember to keep things light and avoid neat brown at all cost.

So the painting is done, all is dry and it's now time to dress the tree with foliage. Hold the tree upside down and soak the branches in glue. With the tree still upside down sprinkle dark foliage onto the sea moss. Next turn the tree the right way up and apply a lighter foliage, by doing things this way you will create a feeling and appearance of depth. You may find one or two bald areas and this is where the horsehair clumps can be applied to bulk out the tree. Additional foliage can be applied by spraying the tree with hairspray.

With a little practice you should end up with something like this, each tree you make will be a little better and don't be afraid to experiment.

You will probably find your tree looks best from one side only or might strike lucky and make a perfect specimen. Don't throw your early efforts away but save them for placing in the background or in groups with your best examples planted in the foreground.

Perhaps you would like something easier to begin with such as this sea moss tree ? Apart from not using the plastic mouldingst the method and other materials are the same as the following photo sequence will show.

Sea moss held together with twist of wire, take care to remove the little tails of the plant which you will find in odd places with tweezers.

Modelling clay has now been added to create the trunk.

More sea moss has now been added and the tree trunk carved.

The completed tree ready for planting on the layout, easy wasn't it and all for a couple of hours work between other projects and chores.

Last of all some trees at Penhydd.

Welsh Interlude

2010-11-06T17:18:00.002Z

Living close to the North Wales coast we are frequent visitors to this lovely part of the country. The Victorian resort of Llandudno being a firm favourite, but strangely enough until this summer I had never taken a trip on "The Great Orme Tramway". For those of you who have never visited Llandudno it is protected by two rocky outcrops, namely "Little Orme " to the north and "Great Orme "to the south.
A lovely promenade sweeps around the bay between the two and at one time steamers arrived and departed from the pier at the foot of "Great Orme " to the Isle of Man and Liverpool.

So on a warm summers day we ventured off on a journey to sample the delights of this wonderful example of Victorian engineering. Opened on the 31st of July 1902 it is the only cable operated tramway operating on a public road in the country and indeed is only one of three in the world, the others being in San Francisco and Lisbon.

A view of the lovely restored terminus

Car No.4 glides into the platform.

A short walk found us at the station and it wasn't long before car No 4 glided into the platform. All of the superbly restored cable cars are named after saints, taking our seats it wasn't long before we departed for Halfway House. This is where the winding house is situated, one cable runs between here and the lower terminus and another runs to the summit. On arrival at Halfway House you change trams and pass through a corridor to the upper departure point. As you do so you can see a workshop and the winding drums with all the control equipment.

Just beyond the houses the line begins to climb and crosses a set of traffic lights, naturally the trams have right of way !

Leaving Llandudno behind you can see the sweep of the bay. The foothills of the Snowdonia National Park are to the right.

The engine room and winding drum for the first cable, a short walk and another tram awaits to continue the climb to Summit station.

Passengers board a tram to return to Llandudno Terminus.

Arriving at the summit we were lucky to have a clear view of the peaks of Snowdonia and across to the Isle of Anglesey.

At the end of our return journey we were greeted by this fully restored Leyland Royal Tiger, now they don't make them like that anymore !

Like to know more well take a look here. http://www.greatormetramway.co.uk/

Winter Projects and Milk Tanks Pt No1

2010-11-04T16:04:00.002Z

With all the semaphore signals complete and in place on the layout I turned my attention to repairing a little damage which was caused during a recent photoshoot. Nothing major mind you just a new five bar gate and feedstore lamp being needed.
I get a lot of pleasure from making my own bits and pieces and whilst I could have bought a new gate I decided to make one from microstrip as I did with the previous one. This is rather simple to do by cutting some thin strips of double sided tape and and applying them to a cutting mat. The square grid on the mat will give you the means of making sure all is true whilst the tape will hold the bars in place whilst applying the solvent to the post and brace. When the gate is complete it can be gently lifted free of the cutting mat and left to harden. The next job being to trim and clean up the gate before adding hinge detail and painting.

The gate in situ with just the hinges to pick out, it is painted with a mix of weathered wood and weathered sleepers, both colours being from the Precision range of paints.

Ground signals were tackled next and I have used the Ratio plastic ones from the signal kit. Of course I have added a little extra detail which has hopefully improved them. Mind you I stopped short of making them operational but never say never.

This is just one of three on the layout, the disc has been made to pivot and just needs linking to the point operating mech. A facing point lock can be seen behind with the detector bar and rodding, it has been mistaken for an uncoupling ramp before !

The new year should see work commence on the Creamery and so I turned my attention to a couple of 6-wheel milk tanks. Both Hornby and Dapol produce examples of these vehicles, the Hornby model is based on the old Lima model but with a retooled chassis I believe ?
The Dapol model is entirely new and I bought two of them when they were first introduced. Whilst rather nice models they do not seem to be modelled on any particular prototype, however they do capture the look of the vehicles.
Looking at the models there are several areas where improvements can be made. As I use S & W couplings the tension locks and their mounts were removed. EM gauge 3-hole wheels were easy enough to fit but a little material needed removing from inside the chassis frames and brake blocks so the wheels revolve freely.
I find it rather a surprise that given the quality of current RTR the models have no drawhook, steam or vacumn pipes ! Vacumn cylinders are also absent but at least the brake blocks line up with the wheels ! These days I use a rather neat cast hook made by 51L models and mounting plates from the MJT 'W' iron etch. Steam and vac. pipes being from the odds and sods box, I throw very little away !!
Painting ..........well looking through my albums the tanks all seemed to be a filthy black. However several different colour schemes were carried over the years.
I decided to paint my own models in Precision Dirty Black enamel, in places a little of the owners lettering is left showing through the grime.

The chassis are finished in sleeper grime with a little brake dust and rust paint dry brushed in place. Dirty white streaks were added to represent spilt milk, weathering powders complete the job.
You can see before and after photo's below, I expect to need at least six tanks and will most likely use a couple of the Hornby models for variety. David Geen produces a bespoke kit for the GWR version but they don't come cheap.

The last job this year will be to detail one of my two Pannier tanks, more on that another time.

Signals for Penhydd Pt .4

2010-10-11T17:15:00.007+01:00

In my last posting I mentioned about building another starter on a smaller 22 ft post to replace the original which I felt was too high for the given location. So having one more spare Ratio post it was carefully measured and cut down to the required length.

It can be seen here on the far right, as you can see painting has been started on the other two signals and it shouldn't be long now before all three are completed and installed on the layout.

So here we have the new starter with pull wires installed and just awaiting spectacle glazing.

Finally a local passenger gets the road and it is time to return to the workbench !

The next job was to fit the spectacle glazing which turned out to be rather trying . A spare spectacle plate was laid over the glazing material and used as a template. With a new blade in my craft knife a lens the correct size was cut out, it took several attempts to get a decent lens but after much cursing and rejects I had enough of both colours to glaze all four spectacles. Matt varnish was used to secure them in place and they were then left to set.

Operating wires and guides were next tackled, the guides are simple loops of .33 blackened brass wire secured into pre drilled holes in the signal post with a touch of cyano. Operating wires are from the same material carefully bent and cut to shape. There are two ways to operate the signals, you can either use the balance weight as intended or cheat and have them cosmetic with the signal arm dropper wire passing straight to your choice of control system. I decided that the balance weights would be functional and this is how I went about the task.

I always like to make my signals removable and so I made a base plate complete with a plug. A hole is drilled into the baseboard and the whole unit simply drops in place. When it come to track cleaning the whole signal can be unplugged which reduces any chance of accidental damage.
Below we have the starter signal temporarily mounted to show my method of installation and operation.

In this photo the baseboard is represented by the piece of card. The white tubing under it is a piece of plastic tube which is cemented to the signal base plate. The signal arm pull wire passes down to the balance weight and another passes from the balance through the tube to which a piece of brass chocolate box connector is screwed. This has two purposes, one of which is to act as a return weight and the other as an actuating contact.

The photo below shows the method of operation, a simple relay, in this case a 4RA automotive type has an adjustable actuator arm soldered onto it's spring contacts, a paddle being soldered to the very end of it.
This contact plate is in the raised position when no power is present and is pulled downwards when it is applied. The longer the actuator arm the greater the throw. You can see the weight at the end of the pull wire just rests on the relay actuator arm paddle.
The relay is secured by a bracket under the baseboard and has no direct connection with the signal unit.

I find this method of operation to be cheap and simple, of course if you want bouncing boards it will not be for you. It is not my own idea as I came across it way back in 1967 in one of the modelling magazines. I have however made one or two changes to suit my own needs.
The choice of relay is not critical as long as it is rated at 12 volts or less and has a means of creating a suitable throw to raise and lower the signal arm.

Here are a selection of photos showing the two signals which have been completed, they will soon be bedded into the scene with a scattering of ash and weeds.

If you wish you can switch your track feeds through the relay contacts so if the road isn't set you cannot pass the signal. Eventually Penhydd will have a fully electrically interlocked lever frame which means both points and signals will have to be correctly set before anything moves. However that is one for the future.

The latest addition is this home signal seen here from across the goods yard. The last to be installed will be the advanced starter, a couple of ground signals also need to be added.

46521 Tales of a Mickey Mouse

2010-10-05T17:27:00.002+01:00

One reason for selecting the Welsh Borders for the location of Penhydd was so I could justify using one of these lovely little engines.

They replaced the ageing Dean Goods and Collet 22XX in and around the Welsh Borders and other parts of the ex GWR system. Of course they could be found elsewhere in the country as well. The more spacious and enclosed tender cab offered much better working conditions for the crews but they still preferred the products of Swindon and took great delight when it was found that the Deans Goods was a more free steaming engine. Several test were conducted at Swindon resulting in many modifications being made which improved the steaming of these small Ivatts.

I first became aquainted with these engines at our local station when one rolled in on the local branch passenger. Usually a Stanier or Fairburn 2-6-4T would be in charge of the six coaches which made up the train for Manchester Central, so it was a refreshing change to see a tender engine doing the honours.

Here we see 46521 drawing into Penhydd, she was a Brecon engine and well suited to the location of my layout.
They are an ideal branchline locomotive equally at home on both freight, passenger or parcels on both prototype model railways.

I didn't see another of these engines on our local service for some weeks and so asked one of the drivers that I knew what had happened. He went on to tell me they usually appeared on the 16.10 service from our local station to Manchester and so I made sure not to miss it. True to the drivers word she appeared and I managed to cab her, even managed a short ride on the footplate. From then on I was hooked and longed for a model of the class. This eventually appeared as a Hornby release and was a lovely little runner.

My current model is of course made by Bachmann and was bought second hand, it had been crudely converted to EM by the previous owner yet despite one wobbly wheel runs rather well ! I have been waiting for a wheel conversion kit to do a proper job. Alan Gibson now does such a kit with 3mm axles for this model, Pt No.4800/33 for those interested and so she will shortly be taken out of service for a set of these wheels to be fitted. A little extra detail, close coupled tender and light weathering will also be carried out, the return crank screw will also be disquised.